You never have to look for a cyclo, as they are there and always looking for you. They are much more aggressive than the tuk-tuk drivers of Bangkok, in that they will follow you, hound you, grab your arm, and if you don’t want them now, how about later? Don’t ever think that the word later gets you off the hook, because they will pin you down to a time. And as luck would have it, they also know from which hotel you hail. Or at least, they knew where we were staying, and I have to blame Chuck entirely for that. During the time I was recuperating from my food poisoning, Chuck was all over District 1, photographing every last molecule of the place. Not only did he become best buddies with the baker, but also the drivers got to know him, the restaurant owners, and the cabbies. It also doesn’t help that his camera has a lens that looks like a weapon.

These men were waiting outside the market for us. You will agree to a price, the length of the ride and ascertain they know where they are going. And of course, it means nothing. OK, OK, OK . These are the most famous Vietnamese words in the vocabulary.

Well, another thing about the cyclo is that you ride alone, so you cannot commiserate as things are happening. But what you can do is take candid shots of your companion in their hour of dark panic. See photo below. Chuck’s driver knew a little English and was pointing things out to him; my guy was laughing non-stop, particularly at my horror, as he was trying to cross a two-way boulevard, head on to the oncoming traffic.

Tom & Jerry (as we dubbed them)decided it was time to drop us off in the middle of nowhere. They kept pointing to the "no cyclos allowed" sign on the street, and we positively refused to get off; finally, we were able to locate a card from the hotel to show them where they had to leave us. Naturally, the price on arrival was not the price agreed upon. But do remember, that whatever amount we are talking about is usually tantamount to pennies. So have fun.