Upon entering, one is confronted with staggering statistics: WWII left 55 million people dead--6 million of whom were Jews; 21 million Russians (12 % of the population); 7 million Germans (10 % of the population), 6 million Poles (14%); 2 million Slavs (13%); plus 20 million of mixed ethnicity. This war-ravaged society was the stark breeding ground for the Cold War. Right after these numbers, there is a short biography on Albrecht Haushofer (1903-1945; the man shot in the neck without trial for writing Moabiter Sonette, a testimony of resistance against the Soviet NS-regime), while in prison.

The museum traces the formation of the Socialist Unity Party (SED), a combination of the KPD (Communists) and SPD (Social Democrats), despite the fact that 85% of Western Berliners voted against its creation (those in the East weren’t allowed to vote). It then covers the Soviet Blockade and the SED’s subsequent self-declared parliamentary leadership, from which the GDR was born. Soon after, the notorious Berlin Wall was erected. After covering this, most of the museum focuses on locals’ escape attempts.

There are a myriad of exhibits on near-escapes, successful escapes, harrowing encounters with Soviet officers, etc. An escape car stands in the middle of the downstairs room--in its trunk are suitcases that would have had their sides cut out and have been pushed together as one so that a girl could curl up inside. You’ll also find handmade, faux-Soviet officer uniforms; pliers and tools actually used by escapees; and shovels for digging tunnels. One account involves a group of eight elderly people who were spurned by younger escapees as being "too old"--they proved them wrong by digging their own tunnel under the wall and making it high enough so that their 80-year-old wives could walk though instead of crawling.

There is a small room upstairs that covers the fall of the Wall and the nation’s subsequent rejoicing. Throughout, there are many photos of a destroyed Berlin, which are especially striking in contrast to the modern built-up city now surrounding the museum. There is also various artwork inspired by the Wall and the political climate. Although hectic and cramped, this is a very worthwhile and touching museum.

"We Berliners will not allow ourselves to be an object of barter in these dealings and negotiations. We can neither be negotiated nor sold. It is simply not possible to make a shabby compromise over the heads of such a brave, persevering people . . . !"
--Ernst Reuter, Mayor of Berlin, 1948

Tel: 030/253-7250
Email: info@mauer-museum.com
U6 Kochstrasse
Hours: Daily: 9am to 10pm
Prices: 7 euros, 4.50 reduced

The Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie must have the most convenient opening hours of all museums in Berlin if not the whole of Europe – open daily from 09:00 to 22:00 it is a good place to visit after dinner or on Monday's when many other sites are closed. Checkpoint Charlie, or what is left of it, is of course nowadays open round the clock.

This museum is often referred to as the Cold War museum and is mainly dedicated to the people who tried to escape from the former East Germany to the West. Newer, and equally interesting, exhibition areas also focus on repression and resistance worldwide.

Approaching the museum we had our doubts – it was hard to find the real entrance of the museum itself as opposed to the many souvenir shops. The lessons of commerce and free market are clearly understood, although the unfriendly cashier and an equally morose cloakroom attendant were straight from the Soviet era.

A large part of the exhibition consists mainly of black and white poster size photos and explanations in German and English of escape attempts. Although interesting you could equally well and easier read that in a book. Of more interest is a number of vehicles and equipment used in actual successful escapes. These ranged from incredibly small secret spaces inside cars to hang gliders. Visitors are encouraged to search a car near the exit to try and find the secret hideaway. An intrepid teenage girl hid inside a big radio of a neighbor, who had permission to emigrate. Once in the West she emerged to the surprise of the unwitting owner who instantly forgave the destruction of his radio and the risk she had put him into.

The original "You are now leaving the American sector" signal board is also in the museum – the much-photographed one outside is a copy. Several video displays of relevant famous moments in history are scattered throughout the museum including JFK’s proclamation to be a jam donut – although everyone except perhaps the Communist accepted that he meant to have claimed to be a free citizen of Berlin.

The Museum is interesting and well worth a visit. However, the entry fee is a rather hefty Euro 7 and I was left wondering whether they couldn’t do slightly better given the enormous number of paying visitors to the museum.