Students of the ancient hula were required to pass a series of very rigorous tests including singing a five hour chant they’d never heard or swimming the shark-ridden seas between Kauai and Ni`ihau. Although stories can differ, it’s generally accepted that the plateau above Ke’e beach, only a short drive from Princeville, is the site where hula was created and many a career was made or broken.
Begun as a form of worship, during the days of the great hula halau (school) people from across Hawaii came here to learn the sacred kahiko hula at Ka-ulu-a-Paoa from the high priestess, Kili`oe. After hula was banned under the influence of the missionaries, the instruction took a more "underground" approach and the final exams were less dangerous.
Princeville’s close proximity to the source of origin would not necessarily guarantee that its performers are the most well-versed and authentic in all Hawaii, but it does certainly lend an air of mystery to the proceedings, as does the exquisite location set on the fringe of Hanalei Bay.
Having seen all sorts of luaus; Las Vegas type review luaus at mega-resort complexes, authentic chanting and drumming luaus at local feasts, the famed Old Lahaina Luau and her sister luau at the Feast of Lele, I can attest to a luau’s relative merit. At the Princeville, though highly impressive and satisfying, guests will find generally less theatrics and loads of heart.
On Monday and Thursday evening year round, rain or shine, the conch shell sounds as the the stage area next to the pool is draped with a cloth, reminiscent of the talent show in "South Pacific" when Luther wore the coconuts. This accommodating, low-key arrangement allows guests to linger on the beach with the gorgeous views until show time at 6:00 p.m. The crowd is small and intimate, usually made up exclusively of hotel guests allowing everyone to participate in the imu ceremony, when the smoked pig is unearthed from its fiery pit. Delectable ono foods, salads, pork, chicken and fish are every bit as tempting as are Princeville’s other fabulous dining venues and accordingly reflect the talent of the hotel chef. During the dinner, a trio of very skilled musicians play a broad variety of Hawaiian hits, including numbers from Elvis to Iz.
Meanwhile, guests take advantage of the open bar open where mai tais, beer, wine, and single liquor drinks are available one at a time due to a quirky Hawaiian liquor law. The open bar closes just after the beautiful hula girls exit the stage after having given guests a sample of the various dances from the Pacific Island cultures. Then, the stage goes dark signaling the arrival of the fire dancer. He whirls, he twirls, he dances with fire and runs with knives captivating the entire audience with his ancient displays of prowess.
They may not swim with sharks, but the performers at Princeville definitely know how to win audiences just the same.