The 20th-century writer Aldous Huxley called it "the saddest work of art in the world," referring not to the impact of the scene when Christ tells his disciples, "one of you will betray me," but to the fresco’s state of deterioration.
One of the largest and most ingenious works created by the ultimate Renaissance man, Leonardo Da Vinci’s 1495 to 1497 masterpiece is the most talked-about artwork after his "Mona Lisa", following the release of Dan Brown's The Da Vinci Code.
Since it was finished, art students have journeyed to Milan to view the work, which takes up a refectory wall in a Dominican convent next to the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie.
The painting has many dimensions, and the life-size depiction adds to the realism of the scene. The figures are grouped in a triangular Trinity formation (with Jesus in the middle).
The walls of the room in the painting appear to be continuations of the walls of the actual room you are standing in. The lines zoom in on Christ at the centre, drawing your eye towards his and helping to heighten the drama. Note the effects of the carefully worked interaction between the three sources of light-from the refectory itself, the windows painted in the background, and from the windows on the refectory’s left wall. Another detail that increases the illusion of reality is the colours of the disciples’ robes reflected in the glasses and pewter plates on the table.
Christ is set in front of a window, giving him the requisite halo effect without making it look as if he’s wearing a plate for a hat. Previously, Judas was often placed across the table from everyone else, but Leonardo’s approach positioned the traitor right among the other disciples.
Rather than paint in buon fresco (the method of applying pigment to wet plaster so that the colours bind with the base), Leonardo used oil paint on semi-dry plaster. Unfortunately, this technique caused the painting to deteriorate even before he had finished the work. To worsen matters, Napoleon’s troops used the fresco for target practice, and bombs during the Second World War destroyed the building’s roof. A recent restoration removed centuries of over-painting by early "restorers" and filled in the completely vanished bits with pale washes.
The painting is so popular that it is advisable to book at least two days or a week ahead of your visit during the spring season-or be disappointed. It is open between Tuesday and Sunday between 8am and 7:30pm. It costs 6,50€, plus a 1€ booking fee. It is free to all EU citizens under 18 or over 65. There is an informative audio guide, which helps to explain why such a deteriorated fresco is nevertheless so important. And a few blocks from Via Magenta at Via Carducci 13 is a Bar Magenta, which takes up a wide corner and is a pleasing blend of Art Nouveau café and Guinness pub.