The highest hill in Athens, Mount Lycavittos ("Hill of the Wolves") is a bulbous maze of streets, stairways, residential areas, trees, shops, and who knows what else. It is a living breathing part of the fabric of the city.
My friend and I wanted to get to the top of Mount Lycavittos in the dusk hours to see the sunset. We had intended to take the funicular to the top, but unfortunately it was being repaired that evening (we did not know if this was an ongoing situation). We were met by an opportunistic taxi driver who offered a pricey fare of 30 euro for a ride to the top. That made us even more determined to climb our way to the top!
We were able to walk up a maddening zigzag sequence of stairs and ramps to the top in what seemed to be an hour's time. This uphill struggle was much longer than the way up to the Acropolis, which is a comparative stroll. Sometimes the locals who live here may poke their heads out and wave at you, almost like people cheering marathon runners along a road.
But what a reward is the finish line at the top! You will see magnificent panoramas of Athens: the surrounding hills, the conclaves of houses, and, especially, landmarks such as the Acropolis. The sunset was quite spectacular from this elevated vantage point. We had a close-up view of the whitewashed Chapel of St George, which is located at the summit. If you walk down after sunset, the challenge is to find the exact path from which you came from. There may be one main way up but numerous secondary paths, so carry a good map or compass just in case.
Mount Lycavittos has an open-air amphitheater for concerts during the annual Athens Festival. There are also basketball courts, along with various parking lots and secluded areas that are popular areas for flirtatious necking couples.