Though the building itself is an afterthought in the grand scheme of the downtown Hong Kong layout, Man Mo Temple is hardly forgotten by the religious people of this vibrant city. Built in the 27th Year of Emperor Daoguang, Qing Dynasty, around 1847 AD, Man Mo is a smoky, colorful, crowded place of worship that was like nothing I’ve ever seen before. About the most bizarre religious ceremony I’d seen so far is a Catholic baptismal.
The temple is dedicated to two gods: Mo, the god of war, and Man, the god of literature and civil servants. This struck me as a rather odd coupling of gods, but if Rob Base says it takes two to make a thing go right, and that it takes two to make it outta sight, well, then I suppose they were paired for a good reason.
Walking thru the front doors of the temple is a somewhat disorienting, confusing experience. As you try to pause and take a look at the large paper-burning oven outside, you’ll realize that the traffic coming in and out is too heavy for lollygagging in the doorway, so it’s either in or out. Once you do step in, the thick, stagnant smoke from burning paper and incense offered as alms make it bit difficult to breath. People are individually worshipping in all corners of the temple—some are rapidly bowing and nodding their head, while others were genuflecting and slowly praying. There is no dress code here, either. People are free to wander in from the street in whatever they’re wearing.
The statues of Man and Mo are near the back of the temple, and incense and paper to burn can be had inside the temple if you’re interested. Many people were sporting surgical masks over their mouths because of all the smoke, but even with one on, I have no idea how the people working inside can stand, much less survive, all that prolonged exposure.