After a brief pause to photograph the working-class village of Qorna, we headed directly for the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepshut. It loomed over the parking lot, nearly a quarter-mile away up a stone ramp. (The guide probably chose this first because the heat would only get worse later.)
To better impress her subjects and rival kings, Hatshepshut posed as a male during her reign. The original carvings, he said, portrayed her as one. Jealous successors later changed her back into a woman. Many of the frescoes and carvings are well-preserved and restored. Though we had only limited access to the interior, we could study, but not photograph, its successions of story-telling hieroglyphs. Photogenic exterior carvings abounded.
The tombs of the Pharaohs were built partially underground, then covered with dirt to disguise them as natural hills and conceal them from marauders. They’re in the form of inverted half-pyramids. The outer or upper rooms hold the remains and relics of lesser family members: in one tomb, the mummy of a stillborn royal child. The remains of the ruler himself lie in an elaborate sarcophagus in the lowest, innermost room.
The trouble with tombs, unless you’re an Egyptologist or archaeologist, is that they tend to resemble each other. The first, especially if it’s one of the more elaborate ones, is a ‘can’t miss.’ By the third or fourth, to me at least, it became ‘Been there, done that.’
The most famous tomb, King Tut’s, required a substantial admission fee not included in the tour price. Since all its treasures had been removed to museums, our guide opined that it wasn’t worth it. We used the time we saved to revisit Luxor Temple, which had been badly lighted the day before but was perfect for photography this afternoon. Less well-lighted, because of the flat mid-day desert sun, were the huge twin statues of Memnon and his queen, on the road between the tomb sites and the Nile River Bridge north of Luxor.
The hotel’s travel agent urged me to hire a private car, driver and guide instead of joining a tour group. It could be booked on short notice and would make far more efficient use of my very limited time. And, it would be blessedly free of competing tourists. Except for the Temple of Hatshepshut, where two people blundered into what would have otherwise been my best photograph, we had many sites almost completely to ourselves.
I paid $66 for car, driver and guide. Well worth it, in my opinion.