Brighton has two piers. Well, 1 and a fourth to be precise, as the Grade 1-listed West Pier recently crumbled into the sea after a very heavy storm. It was built in 1866, and in its heyday, had a very ornate theatre and ballroom. Following its recent destruction, it suffered the indignity of hoards of scavengers grabbing bits of its destroyed structure for memorabilia. Will it ever be restored to its former glory? I don’t think so – too much has been re-possessed by the sea and the cost would be astronomical.
So, Brighton became a 1-pier city overnight. The second pier, built in 1889, continues to be used for its original purpose, although it does replace the original Chain Pier (1823), which was swept away in a fierce storm. The Palace Pier is a third of a mile long and boasts an elaborate gilded dome in the style of the much-loved pavilion.
The original pier would have been lined with fishermen and crammed with pinball machines (not quite as we know them today) and moving-picture machines ("what the butler saw"), known as the penny arcade. Today, if you want to check out some of the original machines, a small museum on the lower promenade has an interesting selection to look at and play on.
The pier does not claim to have the super structures of the major theme parks, and many ride fanatics will think the rides extremely sedate. However, what the pier has is atmosphere, and that makes it a venue to try. I’d recommend you go at night, as then the whole structure is illuminated and the razzmatazz is there for all to enjoy.
I’m sure life on the Victorian pier was much more sedate, but nowadays you’ll enjoy a whole range of sensations. The combination of fish-and-chips, hot dogs, doughnuts, toffee apples, and candy floss attacks the nasal senses and taste buds if you care to weaken your will. Whilst the bright flashing lights of the rides, the side shows, and the modern arcade games combine with the music, banter from the stallholders and the noise of the machinery assault your sight and hearing. It would be unusual to make it around the pier without the shrieks of delight from the ride participants, and of course, everyone has to shout to make themselves heard. The general brouhaha on this busy pier will result in some good-natured jostling as you try to maneuver your way around – don’t be timid, because you won’t get anywhere. Before you leave for the comparative calm of Brighton Prom, make sure you purchase a stick of Brighton Rock and take a bit of time to check out the souvenir shops that dominate the center "aisle" of the pier.
Every Saturday night in the summer, the pier plays host to a fantastic firework display –it’s free and encourages the tourists down to the promenade in droves.