Wongduan exemplifies all that is best about Seoul. Hidden away below gleaming high rise buildings, this marvel of late Joseon architecture stands unheralded in perfect contrast to it's modern neighbors, including the Japanese built Westin Chosun in the grounds of which it stands.
Built in 1897, Wongduan was the venue for King Gojong's proclamation of the short lived Great Han Empire, and the Emperor subsequently made annual sacrifices to Heaven until the Japanese formally annexed Korea in 1910. Of similar function and shape to it's more famous counterpart at Tiantan, Beijing, Korea's Altar of Heaven is a three tier octagonal structure based on granite foundation stones. The Chinese influence is evident in the cylindrical curves of the roof, though the stone carvings and beautifully decorated wood are most definitely of Korean origin. Surrounded by a trimmed lawn and pine trees, a path leads to the pavilion, enabling visitors to get a closer look at the intricate decoration.
Adjacent to the pavilion, three stone drums stand in splendid isolation. Dating from 1902, when they were built to commemorate the 40th anniversary of Gojong's ascension to the throne, the ornate dragon patterns carved on the bodies are some of the finest examples of late-Joseon sculpture you'll find anywhere in Seoul. One can only lament that the Japanese demolished the rest of the structures in 1913 in order to build the adjoining hotel.
To get to Wongduan, take the subway to City Hall station on line two. Walk towards exit six, but continue straight ahead through the shopping arcade under the Plaza Hotel instead of exiting here. At the end of the arcade, turn left and follow the stairs up to street level. Wongduan is up a further set of stairs behind the artificial waterfall.