There are a few places in Europe that are always listed as ‘must sees’ for visitors. If the Giralda is not on your list it should be. The Cathedral and its famous bell tower dominate the skyline of Seville. It is a stunning amalgam of the gothic and the mudejar styles –- remains of the grand mosque that stood on this site prior to the cathedral can be detected in the lower levels of the bell tower.
When you walk into the cathedral and your eyes have adjusted to the gloom the first feeling is one of scale -– you are expected to feel small in this monumental space and think about your maker. The roof is forty or fifty metres above you. At floor level there is little to interrupt your gaze as you try to make out the opposite side of the cavern. If it isn’t the largest religious building in Europe (there are various ways of measuring apparently) then it’s pretty close.
Once you’ve got over the daunted feeling the cathedral has a few treasures to reveal. The carved wooden altarpiece (the artist Dancart’s life’s work) is regarded as one of the finest and largest of its type – scenes of Christ’s life depicted with skill and artistry. The other big draw is the tomb of Christopher Columbus.
Climbing the Giralda, though, was our main reason for visiting. The tower is what remains of the mosque that originally stood on this site (built in the 12th century) and this can be detected from the architectural style and brickwork of the lower levels. The top of the tower is very clearly gothic (added in the 16th century to create a bell chamber) and more in keeping with the rest of the cathedral. From within the cathedral you are led up a fairly gentle and wide ramp that winds round and round the inside of the tower –- there are Roman numerals marking your ascent. At various points windows look out over the rooftops and the gothic architecture of the cathedral’s roof. A final climb up a short staircase takes you onto the balcony from which you can gaze across the whole city. I love staring down on cities; working out where you’ve been, catching glimpses of courtyards and buildings otherwise hidden from prying eyes and getting an idea of how the city was planned and grew. If you share this sentiment then you’ll like the top of the Giralda. It’s a great view.
I would recommend relaxing after your descent in the Patio de los Naranjos -– the courtyard dating back to Moorish times when worshippers would wash their hands and feet before entering. It is a fragrant and relatively peaceful place despite the crowds -– tourists tend to quieten down in cathedrals.
Admission fees are reasonable and should not be a barrier to you enjoying this place.