Like all Morocco’s mosques, the Koutoubia, both a place of worship and a Koranic school, does not admit non-Muslims, but we managed to view the surrounds from outside its gates, with commentary given by our local guide. The Koutoubia, or Booksellers’ Mosque, was named after kutubiyin, sellers of manuscripts, who in the 12th and 13th centuries, gathered to lay out their stalls on the square in front of the mosque. The original mosque, built in 1147 after the conquest of Marrakesh by Abd el Moumen, was later demolished because it was found to be incorrectly positioned in relation to Mecca. Its foundations can still be seen today to the right of the existing mosque. The second mosque, representative of the Almohad period of Hispano-Moresque art, combined simplicity with superb craftsmanship and restrained luxury. Built and decorated according to the instructions of Abd el Moumen on the site of the Almoravid palace, it was supposedly completed in 1199 by Yacoub el Mansour. It has 16 parallel identical naves and a wider central nave. Bold and simple geometric, floral, and epigraphic motifs appearing outside (and apparently inside) the mosque gives the building an austere appearance. The 11 cupolas decorated with muqarna, the capitals and its molded structure, make the mosque the finest example of Almohad art. We managed to also see the famed white koubba (tomb) of Lalla Zohra, placed here in the 17th century. Lalla was the daughter of a slave who became a religious leader. The women of Marrakesh traditionally believe that she was a woman by day and a dove by night, and many dedicate their children to her. These children do not eat pigeon.

The minaret of the mosque can be seen from the Place Djemaa el Fna. A symbol of the Berber city and a central landmark, it rises 252 feet into the sky, towers over the town and its palm groves, and stands like a sentinel at the gates of the Sahara. The five-to-one ratio between the height and width of the minaret confers a perfect harmony on the tower. A masterpiece of Hispano-Moresque art, it looks very similar to the Giralda of Seville. Its pink stone walls are decorated with festooned arches, painted floral motifs, and carved tracery. Only a few fragments remain of the blue, turquoise, and white frieze that once adorned the top of the minaret. The first of the four copper balls atop the lantern is so small that it is invisible from the ground, the second, 6.5 feet in diameter, is huge, whilst the third and fourth are respectively half and three-fourths the size of the second. Our guide tells us a curious tale of the balls being made from some gold jewellery belonging to the wife of Yacoub el Mansour, its architect, who is said to have offered the pieces in atonement for having broken the fast of Ramadan for several hours. The balance of the balls is supposedly maintained by the influence of the planets.

The Koutoubia Mosque of the 12th Century is perhaps most noted for its famous minaret, which towers to a height of nearly 230 feet (it is today still taller than any building in Marrakesh). It is one of the "big three" of landmark minarets built by the Almohads; the others are the great Giralda in Sevilla, Spain and the incomplete one of the Hassan II Mosque in Rabat. The attractive design of the minaret, topped by three golden spheres, is still seen as a prototype of Islamic architecture. The exterior features the reddish orange color that is found all over Marrakesh.

The minaret was built from 1150 to 1190, and is still in good condition after a bit of recent restoration. The tower, which is 42 feet square, was constructed with inner and outer walls sandwiching a ramp that goes to the top. The exterior was originally plastered and painted, but now the original stonework is more apparent. Note the nicely carved window arches on the four facades of the tower, which have subtle differences from each other. Distinctive horizontal bands of ceramic tile ring the minaret, which is nicely illuminated at night to cement its landmark status in the city.

The construction of the mosque was begun in 1147, with a second building campaign occurring in 1158. To the north of the current mosque, there is some ongoing reconstruction. As with almost all active mosques in Morocco, only Muslims are allowed to enter the Koutoubia Mosque.

The fenced park to the west of the mosque has a long, attractively tiled reflecting pool that indeed reflects the minaret. Walk through and around the park for some nice views of the minaret by itself and interplaying with fruit trees.