Todmorden, England, United Kingdom
April 15, 2002
Some of the plazas or 'Prazas' as they are are called in Galicia are simply wonderful; the P de la Pelegrina at the entrance to the old town with its Capilla which looks marvellous floodlit and is built in the shape of a scallop shell; the larger P de la Herreria next to it with its omposing buildings all around; the Praza de Teucro named after Teucer, the half-brother to Aeneas and the P da Leña by the museum with its granite columns and calvary [but not photogenic at this time because of major repair works to some of the buildings.] These were just four of the many.
The pulperias? Goodness knows how many there are. The best are those in the less prominent streets in which I could virtually guarantee being the only non-Spanish person eating. In one I had to point to the streamer hanging from the ceiling which had the price of the octopus I wanted and to the brown bowl without handles for the right size for my wine - everything was great!
Another night I had eaten pulpo earlier in the day and I wanted to try a local delicacy of peppers. It was out of season but one man in a small bar offered to cook me some peppers with fish or meat. I agreed and asked what sort of fish. The Spanish reply was uncompromising - he did not know what type of fish but I could select between large fish or small fish! I selected small and it was quite delicious but I have no idea what it was.
Nor is the delight entirely confined to the old town; much of the area between it and the station is very appealing.
In all this I have not mentioned the Ria and from much of the town it can not actually be seen, but pretty well any trip out gives wonderful views of it.
From journal Santiago de Compostela and Southern Galicia