Told that Las Capuchinas was one of the more interesting ruins in town, we headed off, managing to get lost twice. This is quite embarrassing considering the size and the orderly layout of streets in Antigua. Finally, making it to the appropriate corner, we were not sure we were in the right place. There were no ruins to be seen, only an amazingly well-preserved grand old building built in the stocky manner often seen in this town. There were no religious decorations or signs indicating we were at a convent. We quietly pushed on the enormous doors, a section opened, and we entered a room where a friendly woman took our money and gave us a short lecture about the building. We were in the right place.
The first thing we noticed was a small wooden revolving door. This was where the nuns could accept donations and orphaned children without being seen or seeing people from the outside world. From here, we passed into a beautiful arcaded courtyard with a small fountain and purple and pink bougainvilleas growing against incredibly sturdy pillars. We then passed through hallways and another two courtyards before finally coming out into a luxuriant garden full of flowering trees and shrubs. From here, we could finally see the uncommon circular cloister for which Las Capuchinas is known. It looked like a small bullring more than anything else. This is also the first place we saw evidence of the damage reeked by the earthquakes. After meandering through the garden, we headed into the cloister, where there are 18 miniscule cells, a couple of which have been restored and furnished to show how the nuns lived. We spent another hour or two peeking into damaged rooms and looking at the gardens.
History
Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Zaragoza, better known as las Capuchinas, was founded in 1725, and the building was completed in 1736. It was the last convent to be built in the city and different from the others. The women who joined didn't have to pay dotage and had to give up all worldly possessions, living solely off the donations of the faithful. They were expected to live in total isolation. The convent housed 28 nuns at any given time. Las Capuchinas was damaged in the 1751 earthquake, but was restored. Not nearly as damaged as most other buildings during the 1773 quake, it was abandoned nonetheless. All religious art, including the figures from the facade, were taken to Guatemala City, along with doors, window grates, furniture, and anything else that could be moved. The building was sold in 1813 and put to many different uses. Protection and conservation of Las Capuchinas started in 1943. Restored partially in 1950, it now houses CNPAG, the agency in charge of protecting and restoring old buildings.
Las Capuchinas is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9am to 4pm or 6pm, depending on whom you ask. Admission is Q30 (US$3.75) for foreigners.