Ever since my days as a philatelist, collecting the triangular Cape of Good Hope Stamps, I have wanted to see this spectacular part of the South African coastline. We were now en route.
The drive down the coastline was itself scenic. As we negotiated some of the many tight bends on the narrow lanes leading to the entrance to the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, we were astonished to see packs of baboons, strolling down the side of the road. Some mothers were carrying their young on their backs (or, more to the point, the babies were hanging on for grim death). Perfect photo call – methinks. However, as soon as I stopped the car, the animals seemed to sense the arrival of the paparazzi, and they rapidly disappeared from view. These baboons were the shy ones, whereas at Cape Point, they are said to be more at home with tourists.
The entrance to the reserve is guarded by the park wardens, who will willingly relieve you of a few Rands for your entrance. The Reserve is renowned for its floral diversity, boasting over 2,500 indigenous plants, its abundance of bird life (over 250 species), and its wealth of mammals. Our first point of call was the reserve’s information centre. This was a fascinating place to start, as a warden was on hand to advise the best route and to show us some of the wildlife that we might expect. There were a variety of exhibits and insects to view under the huge magnification of an electronic microscope.
We meandered leisurely down the narrowest of roads, stopping off to take in the coastal views and check out the plant life. We paused at the monument commemorating Vasco da Gama’s epic 1497 voyage around the Cape, and then we headed in the direction of Cape Point Lighthouse.
It is alleged that the baboons meet at the lighthouse to take advantage of tourists’ handouts. I have to say that we saw a couple, and they seemed totally disinterested in us. Predictably, there are shops and restaurants here, but we ignored them and made our way to the top. My wife took the funicular railway, whereas I decide to take the energetic route and walk. Both of us claim that our route was preferable, but I really did enjoy the exercise and the incredible views that can only be experienced from the footpaths. And the view from the lighthouse is "gob-smacking". It’s difficult to explain the sensation as you overlook the edge of South Africa, consider all the ships that have floundered here, imagine the feelings of the early explorers, and just take in that view. We are standing near to where the oceans meet and currents collide, and the mistiness that now pervades the air is just how I want to remember this experience.
Yes, we did what all tourists do – we had photos taken by the sign declaring that we were at "the most southwestern point of the African continent".