Walnut Canyon Cliff Dwellings

Jim Rosenberg
Jim Rosenberg
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5 out of 5
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Editor Pick

Walnut Canyon

  • April 8, 2009
  • Rated 5 of 5 by Tolik from Tampa, Florida
Walnut Canyon

A ranger told us "If I had to choose one thing to see near Flagstaff, it would have to be Walnut Canyon". So we added the national monument to our "must see" list and one September morning hit the road. The canyon was only 15 min. drive from the Wyndham Flagstaff resort where we stayed. From Country Club Drive we turned right (eastbound) on I-40, then 2 miles later took exit 204, and drove south 3 miles to the canyon rim. Park open year around except December 25; hours: November - April 9:00 - 5:00; May - October 8:00 - 5:00. Admission $5.00 per person for 7 Days (or use your family National Pass). The Visitor Center perched on the cliff edge with panoramic views east and west. Below the building small seasonal stream Walnut Creek has carved a 600 foot deep canyon into the local Kaibab limestone as it flows east, eventually joining the Little Colorado River en route to the Grand Canyon. The exposed rocks in the wooded canyon walls look like a giant cake - various layers, of slightly differing hardness, some of which have eroded more rapidly forming shallow caves. Very little water runs in Walnut Creek nowadays, because it is held back in Lake Mary which provides water for the city of Flagstaff.

In the small but very interesting museum visitors learn about history of this amazing place. The oldest artifact discovered at Walnut Canyon is a projectile point dated to 8,000 years ago. But it is the Sinagua ("without water") who were the primary residents of this area between arriving about 500 and disappearing by 1300 AD. First they tried to follow their familiar pattern of building houses dug into the ground (called pithouses). We had a chance to see one of these along the Rim Trail, near a farming area. For reasons unknown, the Sinagua (ancestors of the modern Pueblo people, including the Hopi and Zuni) abandoned the Walnut Canyon area between 900 and 1100 AD, then returned to build most of the cliff dwellings and occupy the area for the next 200 years. Sinagua left for good in the middle of the 1200's. Perhaps the rains didn't come at the right time, and there wasn't enough food to tide them over the winter; maybe crowded conditions caused too much disease; or they just got tired of the place and decided to find better homes. Six centuries later, President Woodrow Wilson proclaimed the ruins a national monument November 30, 1915.

Now it is time to take 0.9 mile Island Trail, a steep but very well built path with guard rails down the slope. Many of the dwellings were built around a U-shaped meander in Walnut Canyon, where the creek circles around 3 sides of a high rocky plateau, creating a 'peninsula'. The loop path descends steeply (240 steps or 185 feet) with a long series of steps and circles the peninsula. It passes by the remains of about 20 separate dwellings and has good views of the cliffs opposite, with other ruins clearly visible. These cliffs made pleasant houses - shielded from direct sun in the summer and warmed by reflected sun in the winter. The Sinagua people partitioned ledges into houses, adding a front wall and smoke hole just under the ledge drip line. Numerous overlooks and signs with pictures and detailed explanation make the trip entertaining and give a better insight. The reddish stones used by the Sinagua contrast with the white limestone layers of the canyon. The vegetation changes noticeably in different parts of the canyon. The north facing walls have fir and pine trees, while some of the sunny, south-facing slopes have agaves, several species of cactus and my favorite - a Bar Berry bush perching atop of a small rock. Take your time on the hike up and drink water, but enjoy the canyon views.

A ranger told us that they offer the Ledge Hikes first and last Saturday of the month at 10 a.m; duration 3 hours. This is a 2 miles off-trail challenging hike with steep slopes, loose footing, and brush, to cliff dwellings in an area otherwise closed to entry. Unfortunately we came here on Thursday.

Upon returning up to the Visitors Center, we took the Rim Trail. Small 0.7 mile loop first traverses flat land along the canyon rim offering two spectacular outlooks. Along the rims of Walnut Canyon, evidence of Sinagua farming devices such as check dams is preserved. The trail turns left (inland) and passes a few Pueblo and Pithouse ruins and brings you back to the picnic area near the visitor center. We took about two hours to complete the trails and we didn't rush.

For me, the Walnut Creek Canyon National Monument was equally impressive as the ruins at Montezuma Castle National Monument (50 miles to the south) and Wupatki National Monument (20 miles to the north).

From journal Seven Wonders of Flagstaff

Editor Pick

Walnut Canyon Cliff Dwellings

  • August 28, 2003
  • Rated 5 of 5 by Taylor252 from St. Louis, Missouri
Walnut Canyon Cliff Dwellings

In 1915, Walnut Canyon was designated a National Monument which it was hoped would give it some protection from pot hunters and looters who had been digging in the cliff dwellings since 1880 when train tracks built close by made it accessible. Walnut Canyon contains upwards of 300 individual cliff dwelling homes, built under limestone ledges, that were in use from about 1100 to 1250A.D. The inhabitants were the Sinagua, a contemporary of the more widely known Ananazi who built Mesa Verde. The word Sinagua comes from the Spanish "sin agua", meaning without water. It is not the name of a tribe or clan of people. In fact, we have no idea how these people thought of themselves and their neighbors, or what they called themselves. The area was first populated by a few farmers that grew things like squash, corn and beans around 1000 A.D. Then is about 1100 A.D. after nearby Sunset Crater quite erupting, there was a rapid increase in population -- partly because Walnut Creek had water in it and partly because of the nature of this canyon. One wall is exposed to heavy sunlight, the other is much darker. This creates two separate eco-systems, one desert, and one dry mountain. As a result there was a rich variety of plants and animals to feed the population.

The ruins here at Walnut Canyon are extremely well preserved even though it has been roughly 700 years since they were occupied. Pottery, toys, arrows, material and other things have been found. One interesting note, when archeologists come across something they can’t figure a use for, they have resorted to talking with some of the elders in the Hopi or Navajo communities. Many of the items were well known to these men, which leads investigators to hypothesize that the Sinagua may be the ancestors of these two tribes.

We were there in winter and the site was not crowded, which I like. The ranger said that at other times the opposite is true. The Actual site has two trails. One is led by a ranger and goes into the back country. (See the website for more details.) The other, the Island Trail, is the one we took. It descends 185 feet, 240 steps, into the canyon providing access to 25 cliff dwelling rooms. The trail, a somewhat strenuous 9/10 of a mile round trip, is one of the best ways to experience the park. Climbing back up can tax heart and lungs if they are weakened, so take it easy (there are benches along the way and bring water! The elevation is 6690 ft. The entrance fee is $5.00 for adults. Persons under age 17 are no charge. The website is http://www.nps.gov/waca/index.htm and the phone number is (928) 526-3367.

From journal The Grand Canyon & Other Sites in the Area!

Editor Pick

Cliff Dwellings

  • October 6, 2000
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Jim Rosenberg from Wausau, Wisconsin
Cliff Dwellings

Okay, we admit that we did a little ranging from Flagstaff to make Mesa Verde into a day trip, but it IS a fabulous historic site -- in fact, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The structures were constructed by the Anasazi people from 600-1300 A.D. There are some fine examples of this closer to Flagstaff. Particularly notable is Canyon de Chelly National Monument. (Note: typical admission to some of the more popular National Parks, including Mesa Verde, is $10 per vehicle. Since you may be visiting several, consider a $50 unlimited annual admission pass, available at www.nationalparks.org).

As for the cliff dwellings themselves, they are truly remarkable. At Mesa Verde, they are concentrated and well-marked, as well as being in outstanding condition. Some of the sites were painstakingly stabilized earlier in the 20th century by a team of archeologists from the Smithsonian. In one area, visitors can go through an example and it has been reproduced to give a close-up feel for the structures without damaging the actual sites. But visitors can also opt for a guided hiking tour of some of the sites, too. Looking at cliff dwellings may sound tame and passive to some, but to us, it was a very special window to history that gave us a new appreciation for the past -- a rather uplifting, near-spiritual experience. Some of the vistas are quite inspiring and certainly much easier to enjoy in the relative calm of the off-season. This is a very authentic type of experience and well worth some trouble to see on your visit to the southwest in one form or another.

From journal Grand Canyon/Southwest -- Find Value; Lose Crowds

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