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Pont Du Gard

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Idis
Idis
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Editor Pick

Le Pont du Gard, the Most Spectacular Sight in Provence

Le Pont du Gard, the Most Spectacular Sight in Provence

If you see only only site in the south of France, it has to be the Pont du Gard. Built by an unknown architect it is, in my eyes, the most spectacular legacy left over from the Roman occupation. Yet it is not a temple to honour the gods, nor a palace to honour its occupants, nor even a theatre to awe the masses. It is merely a piece of civic enginerring, an aqueduct, designed to help transport fresh water from its source in the hills above Uzes to the thriving conurbation of Nimes.

The original aqueduct was some 50km long, and 90% of its length was underground. It wound across the terrain - the distance between Uzes and Nimes was probably nearer 25km as the crow flied, but the Romans chose the least challenging (and hence cheapest) route. Yet they did not do a shoddy job. The route has a constant gradiant, so that from its source to Nimes' watertower 50km away there is only a drop in height of 17 metres. That is roughly a slope of only 33cm every kilometre - incredible! That Roman engineers were capable of this feat two millenia ago, armed only with plumb lines and line of sight boggles the mind. It was another 17 centuries before the theodolite was invented!

As I said, 90% of the aqueduct's course was underground, and much now lies in disrepair. Yet its central image is the Pont du Gard, the famous three-tiered bridge of arches spanning the valley of the River Gardon. Unadorned, roughly finished (certain blocks protrude - they were used to aid the masons heave the other blocks to the top), it is not even symmetrical. The first full arch from the right bank, under which the river mainly flows, is wider than the rest - for proof look at the smaller tier of arches at the top. Whereas most large arches are surmounted by three smaller arches, this one has four smaller arches atop it. Yet it has a simple majesty. It has drawn tourists for centuries. You will inevitably see masonic symbols chiselled into the stonework. These were left by French architects through the 17th century and onwards, who came as pilgrims to see the pinnacle of their craft.

When visiting, the first decision you have to make is - whether to head for the right or left banks. Both have carparks (€5.00 for parking). The right bank has the visitor's centre, shops and a restaurant, and it is here that nearly all the signs direct you. To get to the left bank you have to head south out of Remoulins and look carefully. The left bank has a gift shop, some snack stands, and toilets. It also has the 'shore', sloping down to the water (the right bank is sheer, popular with 'tombstoning' youths leaping off). So if you want a picnic and a swin in the river - a genuinely great way to cool off on a hot summer's afternoon - head for the left bank so you don't have to carry your gear as far. As well as swimming, you can hire canoes from a point upstream on the right bank and paddle along *beneath* this World Heritage Site. You are discouraged from swimming beneath it, but people do (they also try to discourage people diving from the rocks, but it happens!)

It is easy to cross from one bank to the other - simply walk across the Pont. It became a bridge early in its history, and the cart-track was enlarged in the post-Renaissance age. Tracks lead upwards at either end of the aqueduct, to enable you to see it from higher viewpoints.

The visitor's centre is a brand shiny new complex. The highlight is the Museum (€7.00). This is very in-depth, and focuses not just on the bridge and its construction, but also the importance of water in Roman daily life, and the uses to which it was put - piped into private residences, spurted from fountains to beautify the cities, supplied to the grand public baths. (On the latter subject listen to some of the audio samples - there is a great epigram from the noted Martial about the 'parasites' of the baths, obsequious flatterers who will fawn upon you until you finally crack and invite them to dinner!). Roman Nimes had a population only a sixth of today's - yet they still got through the same amount of water on a daily basis. It is a cool haven, alive with sound effects of trickling water.

Less worthy is the cinema - €4.00 for a 25 minute short film, featuring the love story of a girl from Nimes and a boy from Rome with a portentous voice-over. Avoid. From €5.00 there is a 'Ludo' for children between the ages of 5 and 12. Obviously I didn't go in. But you may as well pay €12.00, which covers entrance to Museum, Ludo, Cinema, a booklet for the Memoires de Garrigue (a nature trail exploring aspects of the landscape), and also your car parking fee (normally €5.00). This day-pass is only €9.00 for those between the ages of 6 and 17. There is also a family ticket: two adults and one to four children pay only €24.00.

Of course, you need not pay any of this. The river and the Pont du Gard site are free, as is the Garrigues nature trail - though I'd imagine you would have to drive and hence pay the €5.00 parking fee. And it is a wonderful day out, picnicking beneath the mighty stacked arches with the flowing Gardon to cool off in. My younger brother does not have the same love of history as me, and yet this was the one place that he wanted to bring me to. This was his third visit, and it is still his favourite place in Provence. I'd have to agree.

From journal Provence: A Home From Rome

Editor Pick

Pont du Gard Aqueduct

  • January 17, 2007
  • Rated 4 of 5 by haslo04 from Rochester, Minnesota
Pont du Gard Aqueduct

Historically, southern France is a fascinating place. It has 800-year old ruins of the feudal castles of the middle ages, but it also contains plenty of ancient ruins as well. This part of Europe was the frontier of the Roman Empire. Early years of the Roman Republic were dominated by consolidation of power in Italy but by the 2nd century B.C., that power spread into Gaul, as the modern France was then called. Over the next 400 years this area was under the rule of the Empire, usually providing much needed land for the veterans of the Roman legions. For that reason, this area is filled with many important Roman buildings and Pont du Gard is one of the most impressive structures of them all.

Pont du Gard, which simply means "the Bridge over the River Gard," is the largest of the remaining Roman aqueducts. It was finished around 19 BC, under the supervision of none other than Marcus Agrippa, Augustus' son-in-law. The current remains are only a small part of a 30 mile-long aqueduct that connected a fresh water spring to the Roman city of Nimes. Please ponder that for a moment. Over two thousand years ago, Roman engineers built an enormous stone structure to supply 44 million gallons of fresh water a day to one of their provincial cities. We have all much to learn to truly understand the state of technology and human affairs in the ancient times. We may have WiFi Internet, but our masonry is not as good. In the mid 1990s a powerful flood ravaged this area, destroying the modern bridge built to span the river. Pont du Gard only suffered minimal damage in that affair.

Subsequent history of Pont du Gard is equally interesting. The fall of the Roman Empire disrupted maintenance and we know that by 9th century it became completely unusable. But it continued to inspire and awe the local villagers of the Dark Ages, who nonetheless helped themselves to all the stone they could. The aqueduct was dismantled, leaving only the Pont du Gard itself, most likely because no peasant could possibly steal a block of stone bigger than his house. As the local economies resurrected themselves in the Middle Ages, the remains of the aqueduct were used as a conventional bridge. By 18th century, the structure became a very big tourist attraction and to this day you can see inscriptions of two hundred-year-old hearts and monograms of the men smitten with love for their sweethearts. It was very interesting to imagine not only the builders of this magnificent structure, but also think of all the generations of visitors that have been there to see it since the time before Christ.

From journal Southern France

Editor Pick

Pont du Gard

  • June 4, 2006
  • Rated 4 of 5 by nrf from North Vancouver, British Columbia
Pont du Gard

Forty kilometres north of Arles is one of the world's most photographed artifacts. Pont du Gard, built 2,000 years ago, was part of a 50km system carrying water to the city of Nimes. It was added to UNESCO's list of world heritage sites in 1985.

Construction of the bridge was begun by the Romans around 40 AD. It is about 900 feet long and 160 feet high and is made of shaped stone, assembled without mortar. In the 18th century, the middle level was widened to create a road bridge.

This structure is iconic. It is featured on 10-Euro paper currency and it was background in a series of television spots for the modern Volkswagen Beetle. The magnificent arches are pictured in countless tourist brochures and school textbooks as an example of Roman engineering.

We were completing a circle tour that began early that day in the Camargue. We had spent many hours exploring Avignon but the bridge over the River Gard was a can’t-miss site. We arrived as day's end approached and were treated to a golden show of sunlight that emphasized each stone arch of the famous structure.

Work in recent years made the area around Pont du Gard very accessible and comfortable for visitors. A museum provides comprehensive displays about the importance of Roman aqueducts and their construction. Three major themes are developed with impressive multi-media presentations. The first discusses Gallo-Roman civilization and the importance of water to everyday life. The second theme discusses engineering and construction of the aqueduct and bridge while the third represents the maintenance and evolution of the structures over time. There is also a program LUDO, specifically for younger children. The facility offers a family package that provides access to all programs and exhibits for a very reasonable 20 Euros.

Particularly for those interested in history and engineering, Pont du Gard is worth a half day visit, longer if you care to enjoy detail of exhibits in the Museum. Of course, you will find the usual food and souvenir outlets and a large free parking area.

From journal Western Provence & Rhone River Delta

Editor Pick

Pont du Gard

  • December 21, 2003
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Idis from Copenhagen, Denmark
Pont du Gard

Pont du Gard is a major sight and a well visited one. If you arrive early the amount of visitors is manageable, and the temperature is more cozy. Walk from the car park and along the river down to the very well preserved, three-tired Roman aqueduct which was built around 19 BC to bring water from one site of the river to the other. This is a very beautiful place and you can also walk up a small path on the other side of the Pont du Gard to get a great view of the enormous "bridge", the wild river and the surroundings.

Some years ago you could lie sunbathing on top of the "bridge" but the structure has now been fenced off to preserve it. Instead, you can now lie on the river's side--depending on the water's level--and sun bathe, or you can go to the "Kayak Vert" or "Canoë Le Tourbillon" and rent a canoe.

There is a big welcoming center attached to the place - it's not quite my style - very commercial - but they have a museum and a cinema if you have more interest in the place than just seeing the great views.

Parking will cost you about 5 Euro. But you can also reach the place by bus from the nearby Nimes (23 km) and Avignon (26 km).

From journal Picturesquely Provence

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