Description: As we left Glacier Point, the limitations on our visit to Yosemite were becoming apparent. It was just after 11, we were waiting our turn at the ‘facilities’ by the parking lot, and we were at least an hour away from the Valley itself. Neither of us was disappointed in the morning we’d spent among Mariposa’s sequoias, or atop Glacier Point, but we knew we’d be leaving Yosemite in about five hours and we’d already fallen in love with the place.

We rejoined Wawona Road at Chinquapin and headed north, finally turning east after another five miles. We entered the famous tunnel that serves as gateway to Yosemite Valley, and emerged into a wonderland at Tunnel View. Thankfully, we found a parking spot, and dodged traffic to join the crowd along the sidewalk and viewing area on the north side.

This is the site of Ansel Adams’ famous photograph, and everyone deserves a shot at replicating it. It was a great day, but even today’s conditions made you realize just how perfect the conditions were in Adams’ shot. It’s five miles down the Valley to Half Dome, and over those distances even a modest amount of haze shows up.

The crowds were pretty thick, but largely good-natured, and we took turns trading portrait shots with some friends we recognized from Glacier Point. It took about 10 minutes for us to have a front row seat for the view, which we obtained with a minimal amount of elbowing and defense. I realized that Adams must also have been here at just the right time, with the waterfalls flowing in high volume over the valley walls.

I knew that the trail to Inspiration Point left from somewhere on the road’s south side, so we crossed back and looked around for a trailhead. Eventually, we found something like a path heading up and back in the right direction, so we started climbing. It was pretty steep, and a mile and a half of this didn’t thrill my daughter, so we found the first open spot and turned to look back down the valley.

What a difference a little distance can make. The small investment of time put us up about 50 feet, and completely removed us from the activity below. We had nearly the same view, but with more of the quiet and reverence that it deserves. I first read this advice in a ranger’s suggestions about Yellowstone (and then about Bryce, and the about Zion, and then…): 90% of the visitors never get more 50 yards away from the parking lots. Just get on any trail, and you’ll have a whole different experience.

We sat on the rocks for while and took in the Valley, and made the decision to forego the rest of the trip to Inspiration Point and rejoin our fellow visitors down below. In a few minutes, we were at Bridalveil Falls, the next major stop on the south Valley drive. This place was packed, and parking was non-existent. After three circuits of the parking lot, I broke my own code of ethics and pulled into a non-spot. We sprinted for the short trail to the falls, only to find it packed like a subway stairwell at rush hour. In a few hundred yards, we emerged onto a platform under the spray from the broad, windswept falls, which showered us with a cool pleasant mist. I held my camera up over my head and took a few shots. This was a grumpier crowd than at Tunnel View, and we quickly retreated to the car.

On a whim, we turned left off the road and toward the Merced River, eventually arriving at a parking lot where we abandoned our vehicle in a legitimate location. Pretty soon, we were at the river’s edge, along a section where it turned and ran at right angles to both valley walls. My daughter wanted to get in the water, so we threw our shoes on the bank and tried to find a way in that worked for someone holding camera, wallet, keys, etc. There wasn’t a good route here, but now we both were anxious to wade in the river, and headed a little further down to Sentinel Beach.

This was delightful, a combination of families at the seashore and alpine vistas. Rafters floated by, grandparents sat in folding chairs in the river, kids splashed and swam and floated, and we stood and turned in circles for a few minutes, taking it all in.

This was the highlight of our time on the Valley floor. We knew we’d want to leave by 4pm, in order to keep our upcoming trek over the Tioga Road and south to Death Valley from becoming an all-night affair. In the remaining time, we poked our head in the visitors center, bought t-shirts, toured the native village, and hiked down to the Ahwahnee for a glimpse of how the other half lives. Finally, we reluctantly headed to the car, and out Northside Drive to the Valley’s mouth. We pulled off at Valley View for one last look, and got our best view yet of this tremendous place.Close