Inca Trail Reviews (Cusco, Peru)

Trekking Out the Inca Trail

Tel Aviv, Tel Aviv, Israel

February 28, 2011

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Best of IgoUgo Maybe because of its fame, I wasn’t expecting much of the Inca Trail. An intricate network of thirty thousand kilometers of trails connected the corners of the Inca Empire, from Colombia to Chile. "Corners" is the correct word, despite the territory ...Read more Maybe because of its fame, I wasn’t expecting much of the Inca Trail. An intricate network of thirty thousand kilometers of trails connected the corners of the Inca Empire, from Colombia to Chile. "Corners" is the correct word, despite the territory being rather elongated in shape. The Incas called their home Tahuantinsuyo, literally "The Four Corners." The modern city of La Paz is located in what used to be the "Kollasuyo" quarter. The roads served to move Inca armies, and were wide enough for at least two warriors to walk abreast. A system of runners stationed at tambos (see the Q’enqo entry in this journal for this term) communicated messages along the roadways. The trail was designed to be walked; the Incas didn’t possess any implementation of the wheel even in the mid of the second millennium. Many claim that’s because their territory was in a mountainous area; yet, the Altiplano is large and flat. Half a millennium after the empire disappeared; little is left of this network.

The trail in the immediate vicinity of Cusco became a modern travelers’ attraction by itself. All the travel agencies in town offer treks ranging from two to seven days. It soon became obvious that most tourists booking these treks were not acquainted with trekking in other places. In the past I trekked extensively in Nepal, including the long version of the Everest Base Camp Trek. The Andean High Plateau has several similarities to the Tibetan Plateau, which is just north of Nepal. People in both countries look similar and both build their homes with uncovered red bricks. Soon I found that the similarities were just that. Nepal is superbly organized for trekking. Guesthouses are available in most villages and teahouses split the distances among them; a bed in a guesthouse usually costs around a dime, with the condition that the guest eats at the same house. Superb maps and guidebooks are readily available. It is possible to trek while carrying very little equipment on the back and enjoy complete freedom among the highest mountains on earth.

The Himalayas are higher than the Andes; its local cultures are richer and older than anything available in South America. Yet, if judging by the external appearances of the industry, the situation is different. This is not the first time I report on these South American oddities. Everything is derived from the fact you can walk through the Inca Trail only if booking a tour through a licensed operator. The operator must provide the list of trekkers to the local government five days in advance and there is a limited quota which counts also the porters and guides. The minimum price is imposed by the government and stands at $350 dollar. In comparison, entrance to the Sagarmatha Park (where Mount Everest is) costs less than $20; and after entering the park you are free to wander around below the 6000m altitude mark. In Peru, the operators commit to provide guides and porters; you cannot walk alone. The porters are legally limited in the weight they can carry to 25kgs; this is checked by local authorities at specific checkpoints. In Peruvian terms, the entrance fee is a small fortune. In Himalayan terms, it ranks as the fee for a Trekking Mountain permit; i.e. a permit for walking and climbing peaks above 6000m (but not special peaks like the Everest).

Trekking with a guide is opposed to the spirit of the sport. It implies a carefully planned trajectory, coordination with endless official bodies, choosing paths suitable for the accompanying mules. Moreover, it does not allow spontaneous changes in the route and it brings the constant presence of a sometimes unwelcome guide. Inca Trail treks take the fun out of trekking.

Overall, the tours offered are little more than a moving prison closely monitored by local authorities. At first sight this seems surprising and inappropriate, especially after having walked freely through the friendly Nepalese villages of the Himalayas. Then you remember in which place you are. Its recent history, its violence, the endless stories of systematic violent robbery every experienced traveler in the area can tell you. And then, smiling politely at the travel agent, you leave the shop without booking and breathe some still free high altitude oxygen.
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From journal Peru without Machu Picchu

On the Beaten Path

by Niiko

Andújar, Spain

January 25, 2010

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Best of IgoUgo ~ Tourism & Machu Picchu ~ As stoutly as the Inca Empire was able to resist the advancing Spaniards, the influx of tourism has proved rather more difficult to hold back. That's not to say Peru wants to discourage tourists, far from it - although ...Read more

From journal Snow, Stairs and Soroche; Heart of the Inca Empire

Inca Trail (Part 2) - Iconic Hiking Trail

by beckyX

Cambridge, United Kingdom

November 15, 2009

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Best of IgoUgo ...Part two of the Inca trail. Part 1 covered background of the trail, plus a general review of some of the experience. Part 2 continues with a day by day review.===The first day - 6km, flat===On our first day, we set off walking right after a full ...Read more

From journal Peru Travels

Iconic Hiking Trail (part 1)

by beckyX

Cambridge, United Kingdom

November 15, 2009

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Best of IgoUgo During the peak of the Inca Empire, many steep paved routes were built as a system of highways throughout the empire for the chasqui runners of its ruler (the eponymous Inca) to travel on. If people mention "the" Inca trail, they are referring to ...Read more

From journal Peru Travels

4 day Inca Trail

by carrobers

hollywood, Florida

July 20, 2007

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Best of IgoUgo - The Inca Trail -Now, only five of our group of 12 were hiking the trail: myself, two Australian girls, and an Irish couple, and of course our guide. There were 11 porters to carry our tents food and overnight bags (we only carried our day packs. ...Read more - The Inca Trail -
Now, only five of our group of 12 were hiking the trail: myself, two Australian girls, and an Irish couple, and of course our guide. There were 11 porters to carry our tents food and overnight bags (we only carried our day packs. I found what the porters did inhuman but was informed they needed the jobs, but $45 for three-days of cooking carrying (gas cylinders, tents, food, etc., on their backs) and catering to our needs, I felt was more like slavery than work. We walked for three and a half days. The first day was amazing. I saw hummingbirds and, although I was totally last, walking through some of the villages and seeing the local farmers and the views will never be forgotten. We had baked salmon for lunch. How did those porters do that? The second and third days were extremely difficult and looking ahead was totally overwhelming, at times, for me, but when you looked back at the awesome scenery and what you had achieved helped motivate more climbing. I was very fortunate that I traveled with such an excellent group of people/guide who encouraged me, if it had not been for them and my grim determination I would not have made it. We walked about 12km per day, mostly up and down with a lot of steps. Someone told me about 12,000 steps on the trail and I do not exaggerate when I say some of these steps were as high or higher than my kneecap. Walking above the mountain tops, and seeing the tops peeking through clouds was a sight one will never forget. The fourth morning, when I saw Machu Picchu, I felt so euphoric, it lasted about 36 hours and gave me an energy that I could certainly have used on days three and four. I had a wonderful time. Was it hard? Yes, extremely hard for me (although we did see some 20-year-olds returning on the first day!) Am I glad I did it? Oh, yes, I had wanted to do this for so long I am really happy that I achieved this. Would I do it again? No, if I go again, I will take the train as I believe no matter how much I trained, it would always be very difficult for me. My eternal gratitude to my guide and co-travelers, without their help and encouragement I would not have made it. Close

From journal Awesome Machu Pichuu

Inca Trail - Basics

by Liam Hetherington

Manchester, United Kingdom

August 29, 2006

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Best of IgoUgo The Peruvian authorities are extremely concerned about protecting the integrity of the Inca Trail, and for good reason. The number of people who use it annually create a very great risk of degrading the trail and creating erosion. As a result since ...Read more The Peruvian authorities are extremely concerned about protecting the integrity of the Inca Trail, and for good reason. The number of people who use it annually create a very great risk of degrading the trail and creating erosion. As a result since 2004 the authorities have imposed a quota of 500 hikers each day (200 trekkers, and 300 guides and staff). You simply cannot hike the trail on your own; those turning up ‘on spec’ and expecting to be able to do the trek will be disappointed. Tickets are only sold at least thirty days in advance, on proof that you have booked a tour with a licensed operator – it's easiest if the tour company itself organises your ticket. As of May this year tickets were $60 for adults, $30 for students and under-15s; these prices are being cranked up every year.

Your guide will arrange a meeting with you in advance to explain the logistics of the trip. You will be provided with a bag in which you are allowed to pack no more than 5kg of gear – this will be carried by a porter. Anything else has to go in your day-pack. You should be able to hire sleeping-bags and thermorests direct from the tour company, though these are bulky bottom-of-the-range models. If you have lightweight, professional 4-season sleeping-bags you are best to bring it along; otherwise a number of companies in Cuzco can hire them out.

Equipment you will need to bring are good-quality hiking boots. Do not leave this to chance. Good boots will save you from a world of pain. Clothing-wise, light-weight removable layers are best. You will be cold at night, and you will be sweating like a carthorse during the day. Zip-off trousers are useful. I found full leg coverage was essential at 7.30am when setting out, but by 8 I needed to be in shorts. Ones with side-zips are a boon, to save you from having to stop and remove your boots. Layers can be taken off and stowed in your daypack. For your day-pack get a light bag with two shoulder-straps and a waist strap. I made the mistake of having a pack with just one strap that crossed my chest. This meant that with every gasp my chest was having to work against the weight of my backpack. All you’ll need to carry in here are essentials – waterproofs, sun lotion, blister plasters, maybe a torch, your water and any snacks (I’d recommend the little coca sweets you can buy in supermarkets). I’d also recommend at least one, possibly two, stout walking sticks. You can buy these in Ollantaytambo.

The trail is tough, and I found it a struggle at times. However all of our group, which ranged from school-leavers to pensioners, managed it. If you’re not obviously unfit you should be able to make it. Practice beforehand, and acclimatise to the altitude. Keep a positive frame of mind, walk at your own speed, and enjoy the spectacular sights. Close

From journal The City in the Clouds

Inca Trail - Day 2

by Liam Hetherington

Manchester, United Kingdom

August 29, 2006

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Day Two was always going to be the killer. Huayllabamba campsite is at 2950m above sea-level. That evening’s campsite at Pacamayu would be at 3600m. But first there was the small matter of Warmiwanusca, the 4200m-tall ‘Dead Woman Pass’, to negotiate ...Read more Day Two was always going to be the killer. Huayllabamba campsite is at 2950m above sea-level. That evening’s campsite at Pacamayu would be at 3600m. But first there was the small matter of Warmiwanusca, the 4200m-tall ‘Dead Woman Pass’, to negotiate first. This is an excruciating uphill slog. The trick is to take it at your own pace.

The pace-setters went off first – Grant (triathlete, frighteningly fit, a proper ‘adult’), Gary (footballer, extreme-sports enthusiast),and my mate Ed (recovering from knee surgery and food poisoning, had been advised by a doctor just two days previously not to attempt the Trail). I looked at my watch. 7.30. I had a 1250m climb ahead (the equivalent of climbing to the top on Ben Nevis from sea-level). I set myself a personal target of four hours.

The climb hurts. Walking staffs proved their worth here. With every twist of the path new and impressive vistas opened up. I soaked a handkerchief in a stream and held it in place over my brow with my hat band. I kept getting my ‘wind’ in fits and starts – one minute I would be dead on my feet, the next I’d be powering up through the next meadow. Periodically a cry of “Porters!” would go up and a peloton of men in shorts and sandals would sprint past, a gas canister, a 20kg sack of rice, and two camp chairs balanced on their backs, mocking our efforts. After dismantling our camp they had to reach Pacamayu first and prepare our tents and dinner.

About 11.00 we breached the tree-line, and could see the pass up above. Up here the sun was scorching, bleaching the earth fawn. At this point all I and Jules, who I was walking with, could do was set ourselves targets – when we reach that rock we’ll rest for a minute, at that turn we’ll have a drink. I was aware of my target time creeping nearer. Twenty minutes, fifteen. In the end I realised I had to take drastic action. With a growl I forced myself into a sprint, pulling myself up with my staff more than my feet. To peoples’ amazement I made it to the top with a scream of “11.26! Beat that!” I then collapsed.

I spent half-an-hour at the top of the pass, getting my breath back, chewing on a cereal bar and cheering those who made it up. Kylie, our guide from Tucan Tours offered around a flask of rum, which was gratefully accepted.

Once over the pass the descent was pretty straightforward. The only problem was the glare of the sun directly overhead that reduced me to a walking puddle of sweat. Pacamayu campsite was situated into a bowl beneath the cliffs, looking dramatically out over a cloud-dotted valley. They had a toilet block with rudimentary cold showers, and a tinkling brook for hikers to cool their weary feet in. I just lay out on the grass in the sun, satisfied I had surpassed my expectations. Close

From journal The City in the Clouds

Inca Trail - Day 3

by Liam Hetherington

Manchester, United Kingdom

August 29, 2006

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After the slog of Dead Woman Pass, Day Three was a treat. We woke to see dawn sparkling gold on the clouds in the valley below us, leaving us feeling that we were truly on top of the world. We started off with another hard climb for an hour or so, ...Read more After the slog of Dead Woman Pass, Day Three was a treat. We woke to see dawn sparkling gold on the clouds in the valley below us, leaving us feeling that we were truly on top of the world. We started off with another hard climb for an hour or so, broken by a stop at the semi-circular Incan tambo (way-station) of Runkuracay which kept an eye out over the pass we had cleared the day before.

From here onwards I really enjoyed the hike. The route was mostly downhill, I had got to know my fellow hikers enough to have some good chats, and Runkuracay proved to be just the first of a series of impressive ruins. The next one we reached was Sayacmarca, ‘Inaccessible Town’, its stone blending in with the mountains as it overlooked the valley and the smaller settlement of Conchamarca. Julio was in his element as he explained the features of the settlement. Down into the valley, and an early lunch before noon.

That afternoon we followed a stone highway as it curled around the mountains, skirting sheer drops above misty tree-tops, and delving through an Inca tunnel. Humming-birds blurred past. Phuyupatamarca was our next halt, where Julio revealed some important information – this was the only point of the Trail where patchy mobile-phone reception could be obtained. Cue looks of bafflement as the Brits in the party immediately tried to call home to find the final placings in the football league. As the Manchester United and Arsenal fans celebrated and the Liverpool and Tottenham fans cursed, an Australian was heard to comment “If they put half as much effort into other sports as they do football, England would be unbeatable…”

Incan steps lead down from here. In good spirits we sang all the way down to Winay-Wayna. From the top of the ruins here we had our first glimpse of the Machu Picchu mountain. The archaeological site itself was hidden around the other side of the tree-covered peak. Then we climbed down past an altar and walked on until we reached a restaurant perched incongruously above the Urubamba valley. Gratefully we rested, used the toilets, and bought ice-cold drinks. Normally this would be the end of Day Three, but with the trail from the Sun-Gate closed by a landslide we had to detour down a side path which zig-zagged the 700m descent down the valley wall to Chachabamba, beside the river. There was a tributory we could splash in, and a woman sold bottles of Cusquena, with which we toasted our efforts.

That last night was a blow-out feast. The cooks surpassed themselves. Another birthday cake was produced. We even had table decorations – toucans made from carved aubergines with carrot-beaks. All the guides crowded into the marquee and treated us to a traditional song. We replied with a rewritten version of Monty Python’s ‘Always Look On The Bright Side Of Life’, and our heartfelt thanks to Julio and his assistants. Close

From journal The City in the Clouds

Inca Trail - Day 1

by Liam Hetherington

Manchester, United Kingdom

August 29, 2006

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Best of IgoUgo We were woken at an unfeasibly early hour at our hotel in Cuzco. Onto our coach and out through the shanty-towns, and into the Andes. We snoozed or got to know our hiking companions. Julio, our twinkly-eyed guide provided conversation for anyone who ...Read more We were woken at an unfeasibly early hour at our hotel in Cuzco. Onto our coach and out through the shanty-towns, and into the Andes. We snoozed or got to know our hiking companions. Julio, our twinkly-eyed guide provided conversation for anyone who wanted it. Even at this early stage his immense knowledge and passion for the lost world of the Inca was clear.

The hour-long drive was broken once for a photo-opportunity, then we continued on to Ollantaytambo to meet the rest of our group. We had a thirty-minute break to get breakfast and any last minute supplies – in my case a sturdy walking staff (2 soles) and some knitted gloves (5 soles). I refused to purchase an ear-flapped Peruvian hat, a decision I later regretted when the sun went down. We also had a quick glance at the 16 massive stepped terraces that block off one end of town, and a supposed ‘face’ on the cliff. Then we set off again in the coach along a narrow riverside track for Piscacucho, and KM82.

Most tours start at the train station at KM88. The benefit of KM82 is that you can travel there at your own time, and are not reliant on the train timetable. Also, you get the trail pretty much to yourself. Once at Piscacucho our duffel-bags were weighed and distributed amongst the porters. Time for a quick pose by the Inca Trail sign, and then we were processed one at a time at the way-station where they checked our tickets and stamped our passports. We crossed the Rio Urubamba via a narrow bridge and we were off!

The first morning was unbelievably pleasant, a stroll along the flat above the river. Julio and his other guides pointed out cacti and agave plants. My overwhelming memory is of trees loaded with pink peapods. From our vantage point we could see the tourist train puffing along across the river. Our first climb was up a steep path climbing a valley-wall. From the top we could look down upon the Inca ruins of Llactapata, as Julio pointed out its features.

Lunch was a shock. We turned a bend and a marquee had been set up. The staff had reached here first and had cooked us a meal. The meals were uniformly good throughout the trek – soup, salad, chicken, and a never-ending supply of coca tea.

The next two-and-a-half hours to our campsite at Huayllabamba were over what Julio termed ‘Peruvian flat’ – undulating climbs and descents that had me gasping. The campsite itself was in a valley above the trail, with basic toilets. Again, the porters had reached there first and had set up our tents. There was also a barn serving as store selling batteries and beer. At dinner that night the cooks produced a cake from nowhere to celebrate one of the girls’ birthdays – incredible! Throughout the hike they continued to amaze us with the feasts they concocted, seemingly from nowhere. Close

From journal The City in the Clouds

The Inca Trail - Day 3

by Liam Hetherington

Manchester, United Kingdom

August 24, 2006

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Best of IgoUgo After the slog of Dead Woman Pass, Day Three was a treat. We woke to see dawn sparkling gold on the clouds in the valley below us, leaving us feeling that we were truly on top of the world. We started off with another hard climb for an hour or so, ...Read more After the slog of Dead Woman Pass, Day Three was a treat. We woke to see dawn sparkling gold on the clouds in the valley below us, leaving us feeling that we were truly on top of the world. We started off with another hard climb for an hour or so, broken by a stop at the semi-circular Incan tambo (way-station) of Runkuracay which kept an eye out over the pass we had cleared the day before.

From here onwards I really enjoyed the hike. The route was mostly downhill, I had got to know my fellow hikers enough to have some good chats, and Runkuracay proved to be just the first of a series of impressive ruins. The next one we reached was the stunning Sayacmarca, its stone blending in with the mountains as it overlooked the trail and the smaller settlement of Conchamarca. Julio was in his element as he explained the features of the site. Down into the valley, and an early lunch.

That afternoon we followed a stone highway as it curled around the mountains, skirting sheer drops above misty tree-tops, and delving through an Inca tunnel. Humming-birds blurred past. Phuyupatamarca was our next halt, where Julio revealed some important information – this was the only point of the Trail where patchy mobile-phone reception could be obtained. Cue looks of bafflement as the Brits in the party immediately tried to call home to find the final placings in the football league. As the Manchester United and Arsenal fans celebrated and the Liverpool and Tottenham fans cursed an Australian was heard to comment “If they put half as much effort into other sports as they do football, England would be unbeatable…”

Incan steps lead down from here. In good spirits we sang all the way down to Winay-Wayna. From the top of the ruins here we had our first glimpse of the Machu Picchu mountain. The archaeological site itself was hidden around the other side of the tree-covered peak. Then we climbed down past an altar and walked on until we reached a restaurant perched incongruously above the Urubamba valley. Gratefully we rested, used the toilets, and bought ice-cold drinks. Normally this would be the end of Day Three, but with the trail from the Sun-Gate closed by a landslide we had to detour down a side path which zigzagged the 700m descent down the valley wall to Chachabamba, beside the river. There was a tributary we could splash in, and a woman sold bottles of Cusquena, with which we toasted our efforts.

That last night was a blow-out feast. The cooks surpassed themselves. Another birthday cake was produced. We even had table decorations – toucans made from carved aubergines with carrot-beaks. All the guides crowded into the marquee and treated us to a traditional song. We replied with a rewritten version of Monty Python’s ‘Always Look On The Bright Side Of Life’, and our heartfelt thanks to Julio, his assistants, the cooks and all the porters. Close

From journal Cusco - The Navel of the World

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Trekking Out the Inca Trail

On the Beaten Path

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