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Inca Trail

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DannyBoy7559
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5 out of 5
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11
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Editor Pick

The Inca Trail - Day 3

The Inca Trail - Day 3

After the slog of Dead Woman Pass, Day Three was a treat. We woke to see dawn sparkling gold on the clouds in the valley below us, leaving us feeling that we were truly on top of the world. We started off with another hard climb for an hour or so, broken by a stop at the semi-circular Incan tambo (way-station) of Runkuracay which kept an eye out over the pass we had cleared the day before.

From here onwards I really enjoyed the hike. The route was mostly downhill, I had got to know my fellow hikers enough to have some good chats, and Runkuracay proved to be just the first of a series of impressive ruins. The next one we reached was the stunning Sayacmarca, its stone blending in with the mountains as it overlooked the trail and the smaller settlement of Conchamarca. Julio was in his element as he explained the features of the site. Down into the valley, and an early lunch.

That afternoon we followed a stone highway as it curled around the mountains, skirting sheer drops above misty tree-tops, and delving through an Inca tunnel. Humming-birds blurred past. Phuyupatamarca was our next halt, where Julio revealed some important information – this was the only point of the Trail where patchy mobile-phone reception could be obtained. Cue looks of bafflement as the Brits in the party immediately tried to call home to find the final placings in the football league. As the Manchester United and Arsenal fans celebrated and the Liverpool and Tottenham fans cursed an Australian was heard to comment “If they put half as much effort into other sports as they do football, England would be unbeatable…”

Incan steps lead down from here. In good spirits we sang all the way down to Winay-Wayna. From the top of the ruins here we had our first glimpse of the Machu Picchu mountain. The archaeological site itself was hidden around the other side of the tree-covered peak. Then we climbed down past an altar and walked on until we reached a restaurant perched incongruously above the Urubamba valley. Gratefully we rested, used the toilets, and bought ice-cold drinks. Normally this would be the end of Day Three, but with the trail from the Sun-Gate closed by a landslide we had to detour down a side path which zigzagged the 700m descent down the valley wall to Chachabamba, beside the river. There was a tributary we could splash in, and a woman sold bottles of Cusquena, with which we toasted our efforts.

That last night was a blow-out feast. The cooks surpassed themselves. Another birthday cake was produced. We even had table decorations – toucans made from carved aubergines with carrot-beaks. All the guides crowded into the marquee and treated us to a traditional song. We replied with a rewritten version of Monty Python’s ‘Always Look On The Bright Side Of Life’, and our heartfelt thanks to Julio, his assistants, the cooks and all the porters.

From journal Cusco - The Navel of the World

Editor Pick

The Inca Trail - Day 2

The Inca Trail - Day 2

Day Two was always going to be the killer. Huayllabamba campsite is at 2950m above sea-level. That evening’s campsite at Pacamayu would be at 3600m. But first there was the small matter of Warmiwanusca, the 4200m-tall ‘Dead Woman Pass’, to negotiate first. This is an excruciating uphill slog. The trick is to take it at your own pace.

The pace-setters went off first—Grant (triathlete, frighteningly fit, and a proper ‘adult’), Gary (footballer, extreme-sports enthusiast),and my mate Ed (recovering from knee surgery and food poisoning, had been advised by a doctor just 2 days previously not to attempt the Trail). I looked at my watch. 7:30. I had a 1250m climb ahead (the equivalent of climbing to the top on Ben Nevis from sea-level). I set myself a personal target of four hours.

The climb hurts. Walking staffs proved their worth here. With every twist of the path new and impressive vistas opened up. I soaked a handkerchief in a sparkling stream and held it in place over my brow with my hat band. I kept getting my ‘wind’ in fits and starts—one minute I would be dead on my feet, the next I’d be powering up through the next meadow. Periodically a cry of “Porters!” would go up and a platoon of men in shorts and sandals would sprint past, a gas canister, a 5kg sack of rice, and two campchairs balanced on their backs, mocking our efforts. After dismantling our camp they had to reach Pacamayu first and prepare our tents and dinner.

About 11:00 we breached the tree line, and could see the pass up above. Up here the sun was scorching, bleaching the earth fawn. At this point all I and Jules who I was walking with could do was set ourselves targets—when we reach that rock we’ll rest for a minute, at that turn we’ll have a drink. I was aware of my target time creeping nearer. Twenty minutes, fifteen. In the end I realised I had to take drastic action. With a growl I forced myself into a sprint, pulling myself up with my staff more than my feet. To peoples’ amazement I made it to the top with a scream of “11.26! Beat that!”

I spent half-an-hour at the top of the pass, getting my breath back, chewing on a cereal bar and cheering those who made it up. Kylie, our guide from Tucan Tours offered around a flask of rum, which was gratefully accepted.

Once over the path the descent was pretty straightforward. The only problem was the glare of the sun directly overhead that reduced me to a walking puddle of sweat. Pacamayu campsite was situated into a bowl beneath the cliffs, looking dramatically out over a cloud-dotted valley. They had a toilet block with rudimentary cold showers, and a tinkling brook for hikers to cool their weary feet in. I just lay out on the grass in the sun, satisfied I had surpassed my expectations.

From journal Cusco - The Navel of the World

Editor Pick

The Inca Trail - Day 1

The Inca Trail - Day 1

We were woken at an unfeasibly early hour at our hotel in Cusco. Onto our coach and out through the shanties of Cusco, and into the Andes. We snoozed or got to know our hiking companions. Julio, our twinkly-eyed guide provided conversation for anyone who wanted it. Even at this early stage his immense knowledge and passion for the lost world of the Inca was clear.

The hour-long drive was broken once for a photo-opportunity, then we continued on to Ollantaytambo to meet the rest of our group. We had a 30-minute break to get breakfast and any last minute supplies—in my case a sturdy walking staff (2 soles) and some knitted gloves (5 soles). I refused to purchase an ear-flapped Peruvian hat, a decision I later regretted when the sun went down. We also had a quick glance at the 16 massive stepped terraces that block off one end of town, and a supposed ‘face’ on the cliff. Then we set off again in the coach along a narrow riverside track for Piscacucho, and KM82.

Most tours start at the train station at KM88. The benefit of KM82 is that you can travel there at your own time, and are not reliant on the train timetable. Also, you get the trail pretty much to yourself. Once at Piscacucho our duffel-bags were weighed and distributed amongst the porters. Time for a quick pose by the Inca Trail sign, and then we were processed one at a time at the waystation where they checked our tickets and stamped our passports. We crossed the Rio Urubamba via a narrow bridge and we were off!

The first morning was unbelievably pleasant, a stroll along the flat above the river. Julio and his other guides pointed out cacti and agave plants. My overwhelming memory is of trees loaded with pink peapods. From our vantage point we could see the tourist train puffing along across the river. Our first climb was up a steep path climbing a valley-wall. From the top we could look down upon the Inca ruins of Llactapata as Julio pointed out its features.

Lunch was a shock. We turned a bend and a marquee had been set up. The staff had reached here first and had cooked us a meal. The meals were uniformly good throughout the trek—soup, salad, chicken and a never-ending supply of coca tea.

The next 2 and ½ hours to our campsite at Huayllabamba were over what Julio termed ‘Peruvian flat’—undulating climbs and descents that had me gasping. The campsite itself was in a valley above the trail, with basic toilets. Again, the porters had reached there first and had set up our tents. There was also a barn serving as store selling batteries and beer. At dinner that night the cooks produced a cake from nowhere to celebrate one of the girls’ birthdays—incredible! Throughout the hike they continued to amaze us with the feasts they concocted, seemingly from nowhere.

From journal Cusco - The Navel of the World

Editor Pick

The Inca Trail - Basics

The Inca Trail - Basics

The Peruvian authorities are extremely concerned about protecting the integrity of the Inca Trail, and for good reason. The number of people who use it annually create a very great risk of degrading the trail and creating erosion. As a result since 2004 the authorities have imposed a quota of 500 hikers each day (200 trekkers, and 300 guides and staff). You simply cannot hike the trail on your own; those turning up ‘on spec’ and expecting to be able to do the trek will be disappointed. Tickets are only sold at least thirty days in advance, on proof that you have booked a tour with a licensed operator—it's easiest if the tour company itself organises your ticket. As of May this year tickets were $60 for adults, $30 for students and under-15s; these prices are being cranked up every year.

Your guide will arrange a meeting with you in advance to explain the logistics of the trip. You will be provided with a bag in which you are allowed to pack no more than 5kg of gear—this will be carried by a porter. Anything else has to go in your day-check. You should be able to hire sleeping-bags and thermorests direct from the tour company, though these are bulky bottom-of-the-range models. If you have lightweight, professional 4-season sleeping-bags you are best to bring it along; otherwise a number of companies in Cusco can hire them out.

Equipment you will need to bring are good-quality hiking boots. DO NOT LEAVE THIS TO CHANCE. Good boots will save you from a world of pain. Clothing-wise, light-weight removable layers are best. You will be cold at night, and you will be sweating like a carthorse during the day. Zip-off trousers are useful. I found full leg coverage was essential at 7:30am when setting out, but by 8 I needed to be in shorts. Ones with side-zips are a boon, to save you from having to stop and remove your boots. Layers can be taken off and stowed in your day-pack. For your day-pack get a light bag with two shoulder-straps and a waist strap. I made the mistake of having a pack with just one strap that crossed my chest. This meant that with every gasp my chest was having to work against the weight of my backpack. All you’ll need to carry in here are essentials—waterproofs, sun lotion, blister plasters, maybe a torch, your water and any snacks (I’d recommend the little coca sweets you can buy in supermarkets). I’d also recommend at least one, possibly two, stout walking sticks. You can buy these in Ollantaytambo.

The trail is tough, and I found it a struggle at times. However all of our group, which ranged from school-leavers to pensioners, managed it. If you’re not obviously unfit you should be able to make it. Practice beforehand, and acclimatise to the altitude. Keep a positive frame of mind, walk at your own speed, and enjoy the spectacular

From journal Cusco - The Navel of the World

Inca Trail

  • July 17, 2005
  • Rated 5 of 5 by WitlessWanderer from Bristol, United Kingdom
You now need to book 1 month in advance.

This is due to regulatory changes from March 2005, which have not made it into even the latest editions of most major guides. You can no longer expect to turn up the week before and expect to get on the trail. Lots of people are currently missing out on the experience of a lifetime due to this.

In high season, the wait is likely to be longer. I applied July 1, 2005 and got September 5, 2005!! Book before you leave home.

From journal Vital Information Regarding the Inca Trail

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