We saw Chartres Cathedral after we had seen Notre-Dame-de-Paris and,although Notre Dame's stained glass is marvellous,to us those of Chartres are miraculous.Modern-day experts in the art of stained-glass can't determine conclusively how "they" did it- the "they" being "ordinary" craftsmen of medieval Chartres.
Chartres was an easy day trip for us from Paris via Gare Montparnasse, as we were so close to the RER at Denfert-Rochereau. To describe the indescribable is difficult; the wondrous colors of Chartres' windows must truly be seen to be appreciated; the most expert photographs of them do not do justice to their glorious impact on their viewers. My expectations were high; therefore, I braced for a let-down of those grandiose e xpectations. If anything, those expectations of the beauty of Chartres'stained glass were dim; Chartres is a truly overwhelming experience of color and light. You're impelled to drink it in.
No wonder that Malcolm Miller,the famed guide who has spent his life studying Chartres, still persists in his mission of illuminating the miracle that is Chartres. If you can, take his tour; we couldn't, but some friends of ours did, and highly recommended it to us as more than worth the cost - around $5 or $6. Tours are usually at noon and 2:45pm daily, except on holy days or special event days at the cathedral.
But our experience was a highlight for us, sans tour and sans the "guidance" of the book "Chartres Guide of the Cathedral," which we purchased in the well-stocked cathedral shop after we had spent over an hour within the cool confines of this masterpiece. Never before in my life have I been so awestruck by man-made sights as I was at Chartres' windows. As a tribute to the unifying impetus of religious fervor, the cathedral, its symmetry, sculptures and intricate choir screen, all seems dominated by those colors, those reflections that emanate from those windows. Go! Enjoy! Be overwhelmed!
From Gare Montparnasse, the train took less than an hour;walking through the quiet town took us less than 20 minutes,a tranquil stroll over a well-marked path. Some tourist shops surrounded the cathedral,as well as some charming-looking cafes, but the atmosphere was decidedly non-touristy-rather reserved and respectful of the aesthetic achievement of its grand monument to the Middle Ages. After we left the interior, we circled its exterior to view the lovely rural countryside in which it sits. Above all, aftervisions of Chartres will linger in your mind - an intensity of blues, reds and purples truly memorable,truly nonpareil-without equal. I LOVE Chartres!