Eglise Saint-Eustache

roza4
roza4
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Editor Pick

Eglise St Eustache

  • February 12, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by zabelle from Portland, Connecticut
Eglise St Eustache

I came to this beautiful Gothic church not because of its historical connections, though it has many, nor for its beautiful architecture and Renaissance glory, which it has in abundance. I came here because my ancestress Anne Pineau de la Vieville was baptized here before coming to Canada as a fille du roi, basically what we would now call a mail-order bride, albeit one with a dowery supplemented by the King. I had hoped to find some trace of her here, but there was none. For my own interest, I found the baptismal font and took a photo in the hopes that it was the one she was baptised in. She shares the sacrament with some illustrious company, Cardinal Richelieu, Moliere and Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, (the future Marquise de Pompadour, Louis XV's mistress). Louis XIV made his First Communion here, as I am sure Anne did.

What I did find here was the magnificent Coysevox monument of Colbert, Louis XIV's minister. It is an exceptional piece. I had done my homework, so I knew I would find it, but I didn't expect to find a wooden screen protecting a chapel which was saved by the Princess of Lambale who worshipped here. The chapel opposite has lost its wooden screen and has a metal one like all the other chapels.

This church is noted for the quality of its acoustics, which are good enough that Berlioz performed his "Te Dium" here for the first time, and Liszt his "Messe de Gran". Unfortunately, we were here on a weekday and didn't get to experience this aspect of St. Eustache.

I don't want to leave the impression that this is just a historical site; it is a vital, living parish, and Mass is still celebrated here. The church is open daily from 9:30am-7:30pm, and a priest is available from 3-7:30pm.

From journal Paris- Beyond the Obvious

Editor Pick

St. Eustache

  • August 5, 2001
  • Rated 3 of 5 by Shetraveler from Campbell, California

You'd have to be a real cathedral lover to skip Notre Dame and see only St. Eustache. You really should see both of them as this enormous church was originally built a couple hundred years after Notre Dame to give that cathedral a run for its money. Of course, it hasn't enjoyed the same notoriety as its island cousin (it never had a famous hunchback) - it lacks the same conservation care and hordes of tourists, but nevertheless, St. Eustache served the right bankers well as the parish church for the folks then living at the Louvre and Palais Royal. Indeed, Richelieu, Madame Pompadour and Moliere were all baptised here. Colbert is buried here in a black marble tomb. The cathedral's bulky silhouette is easy to spot when exiting the Les Halles metro station, and when you get closer to the building, you'll notice that its exterior architectural style is not only Gothic (flying buttresses and rose windows) but also Renaissance (the columns) and neoclassical (the later-added facade).

Luckily, the cathedral has interior space of barn-like proportions, allowing for great acoustics (which is what this cathedral has always been known for). Liszt premiered his Grand Mass here as did Berlioz with his Te Deum. The French composer Rameau who is buried here probably still enjoys the musical heritage as organ concerts still take place to this very day (phone 40-26-47-99 for tours and free recital info - Sundays at 5:30 pm).

If the cathedral's name sounds familiar, St. Eustache is also the name of a famous coffee bar in Rome that I reviewed (see my Rome journal). A Roman general, St. Eustache was martyred in a particularly grisly fashion - roasted alive along with his family inside an enormous bronze bull.
www.st-eustache.org  

From journal Alt.Paris (Alternative Paris)

Editor Pick

Eglise Saint-Eustache

  • February 24, 2001
  • Rated 4 of 5 by roza4 from Cinnaminson, New Jersey
Eglise Saint-Eustache

This church is located near Les Halles and Forum. It was built from 1532 through 1640, but its facade the way it is now was significantly changed during the French revolution. This is one of the most beautiful churches in Paris. It combines Gothic and Renaissance styles in its architecture. It has very beautiful stain glass and a large organ and an Oratory where you can listen to concerts. The church also has a large history. This is where Richelieu and Moliere were baptised, Louis XIV had his first communion, many French nobles were buried. Here Berlioz conducted for the first time "Te Deum" and Liszt conducted "The Grand Mass". The church is really an incredibly interesting place and is very beautiful inside and out.

From journal Paris in May, Part II

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