Description: The historical grandeur of Paris, the magnificent ecclesiastical architecture that has graced France since the First Crusade and the resplendent collections of artefacts, silverware, porcelain and conventual relics, handmade during the affluent Renaissance era are epitomized in some way or another in Saint-Denis, a northern suburb of Paris widely known and admired for its intimate and historically deep-rooted city centre.
Quiet and peaceful, often understated by tour operators, this charming city where memoirs of things past are evident at every corner and French royalty is allegorically brought back to life, is ideal for a day or two of cultural sightseeing and historical discovery.
A short metro ride on Line 13 from ‘Champs Elysees Clemenceau’ or ‘Invalides’ takes one to the station ‘Basilique de Saint-Denis’ which is only a couple of minutes north from the tourist office and the main attractions. The last stop of the line, ‘Saint-Denis Universite’ is further north but one can walk easily from here towards the city centre, past numerous minor attractions that include the north end of Rue Gabriel Peri, a pedestrian zone bordered with shops and budget restaurants.
The small medieval centre of Saint-Denis has retained traces of the crucial role the city played in the history of France and in the development of architecture. A few buildings that date back to the eleventh and twelfth centuries still stand today but no other structure in the city gives better evidence of the bygone age that moulded the history of France than the Basilica of Saint-Denis. In addition to this, Saint-Denis Basilica is a landmark of European architecture since it is the first major edifice that set the pattern for Gothic features in church planning and design.
Why is the Basilica of Saint-Denis a milestone in the history of France? The answer to this question is discovered once you visit the Basilica and the underground burial chambers located below its huge choir. Much older than the Basilica, the underground crypt preserves the structural remains of an eight-century church and quite a few revered relics of venerated early Christian martyrs. Along with these, one is given the opportunity to view the respected residues of the corpse of Saint Denis, first bishop of Paris and patron saint of France. Architecture connoisseurs should on no account miss the central chapel. Supported on heavy pillars and thick walls and remodelled a number of times throughout the ages, it is an antique wonder of architecture.
To do justice to this monumental edifice of history, one must definitely step inside the Basilica itself. A tour around the Basilica, particularly around the transepts or side naves and around the back choir or ambulatory gives one the opportunity to step back in time and discover a wealth of fine marble tombs and effigies of French monarchs who ruled France for more than five centuries. Interred within this historical burial site are 42 French kings, 32 queens and at least 63 of their children and high-court officials. The place of rest of each is easily identified through inscriptions in Latin or French that exploit the use of words to immortalize the deceased within.
One of the most interesting, both for its aesthetic splendour as well as for its historical significance is the huge Renaissance memorial of Francois the First, located in the south transept. Equally interesting and imposing is the tomb of Henry the Second and Catherine de Medicis found in the north transept. The apex of this royal necropolis however is reached in the canopied tomb of Louis the Twelfth and Anne of Brittany. Sculpted in high-quality marble, the side-by-side corpses of the king and queen are decorated with highly-crafted statues of the apostles. To complement this monumental opus, each of the four main virtues is symbolized at each corner while the king’s most successful deeds are depicted along the sides with rows of bas-reliefs.
Once this interactive history lesson about medieval French royalty comes to an end, one is advocated to go round the Basilica again in view of appreciating the architectural heritage and the Gothic lacy stonework of this colossal structure. Although the Basilica of Saint-Denis is regarded as the first massive Gothic structure in Europe, it exposes nonetheless the most stunning and most evocative features that are usually attributed to Gothic architecture.
Would-be visitors who are unacquainted with Gothic church design need to become familiar with the basic characteristics of the Gothic style before they visit. The most important features include the pointed arch, the ribbed vault and the flying buttress. One has also to note that Gothic churches in France were usually built in white limestone which was favoured over red sandstone or brickwork for sculptural decorations, particularly where intricate ornamental stonework was concerned.
The groundwork of the Gothic Basilica you see was initiated in 1136 but the complete structure was not accomplished before the end of the thirteenth century when further Gothic features were added. Worthy of note both for its innovative pointed rib vaults as well as for its elaborately sculpted windows is the choir, a masterpiece of structural design considered by architectural connoisseurs to be an extreme example in the use of pointed arches that have the faculty to assign great strength and stability to structural compositions.
Another feature of the choir that renders it a marvel of Gothic architecture is the chain of huge arched windows, one window separated from the next by a thin masonry framework. The pinnacle of each window is ornamented with a profusion of lacy arches that interweave to form a pattern of amazing architectural beauty. If one looks carefully at these windows, one cannot fail to marvel at the huge stained glass that fills in the skeletal Gothic framework. Among the colours that stand out for their vividness and luminosity, one finds a special variety of rose and a rich assortment of purples. Visitors are encouraged to visit the Basilica in the morning when the lovely stained-glass windows glow with the radiated light at sunrise, creating an effect of luminosity, clarity and space.
Other focal points in the Basilica that one cannot overlook are the side-by-side altars that are spread around the ambulatory chapels and the opulent altar dedicated to Saint Denis that occupies the central area of the choir. One will definitely be impressed by the interior architecture of the Basilica and the endless list of magnificent funerary sculptures within. The slender soaring columns, the pointed arches and the rows of stained-glass windows through which light flows in to illuminate this gargantuan space add to the magnificence of this unique place of worship.
Of special interest as well however is the exterior structural design of the west front, consisting of a three-storey elevation wrapped up at the top with a fortress-like parapet. The massive central doorway, larger than those on either side, is adorned with vertical columns and buttresses filled in with thin statues of Old Testament prophets. Above the doorways, the tympanum contains a wonderful carved scene that depicts in detail the Last Judgement and the resurrection of the dead. Of great appeal for its intricate interweaved stonework is the large rose window that occupies a position of dominance at the centre of the upper storey. The heavily ornamented bronze doors with scenes from Christ’s passion add to the magnificence of the west front elevation.
After visiting the Basilica, visitors who are not short of time are encouraged to walk south on Rue de la Legion d’Honneur. On reaching the metro station ‘Saint-Denis Porte de Paris’, cross the wide footbridge you see in front of you. The huge structure further away is the Stade de France, a huge state-of-the-art super-modern stadium that can be visited on hourly guided tours. It is one of Europe’s largest stadiums having a seating capacity of 80 thousand. One feature of the stadium that renders it a great feat of engineering is its elliptical shape. Consider as well its steel roof structure with a huge central tinted-glass area that is engineered to filter out infrared radiation. The two gigantic screens located opposite each other at the far ends of the stadium produce high-quality vision images that are renowned for their brightness and sharpness.
If you happen to be in Saint-Denis on a Tuesday, Friday or Sunday morning, don’t fail to visit the Marche de Saint-Denis, a huge vibrant colourful market that specializes in exotic spices and fresh herbs. The market stalls welcome vendors of all kinds, most of whom are ready to let you taste the products before you buy. The language of bargaining is rarely French but vendors here seem to be multilingual.
Close