Just one street over from Bourbon Street, Le Monde Creole Walking Tours is tucked away in a lush courtyard that whispers secrets of the past. Our guide, Bill Coble, made the Creole world come alive sharing his vast knowledge of stories, secrets, and legends. Tracing five generations of a prominent Creole family through the struggles and triumphs of New Orleans society from early days, through the Civil War, birth of jazz, and Americanization of the city, we visited grand mansions and secluded private courtyards. Most visitors only catch fleeting glimpses of the cool respite offered by lush, tropical courtyards nestled behind locked gates.
Think green. Think tranquil. The cacophony of street smells, heat, and noise fade away. You begin to imagine you are a privileged Creole lounging dreamily among almost banana trees, lush bougainvilleas, citrus tress, and tropical bromeliads. You can almost hear tangible whispers of ghosts of the past. In between courtyard visits, we visited the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum with its 19th-century medicinal gardens, voodoo potions, and cures.
Another highlight of the tour was a trek through St. Louis Cemetery #1. Often called the cities of the dead, the burial tombs in the 42 cemeteries of New Orleans are above ground due to the extremely high water level just below the ground. The whitewashed brick and stucco tombs look like miniature houses in rows on city streets. Flowers, votive candles, and a variety of offerings such as cigarettes, herbs, and toys are left at graves. The Voodoo Queen, Marie Laveau, tomb is covered with triple X’s (XXX), symbols of rituals that call for making three X’s and turning around three times to make a wish come true. No harm in trying. I’ll let you know if it works!
There are public vaults, family vaults, and society vaults. Depending on a family or individual’s wealth and affiliations, burials range from simple to grandiose. Legends and tall tales abound, and a visit to one of the 42 cities of the dead is fascinating, not morbid. A word of caution: do not visit the cemeteries on your own. Take a tour. Ghosts of the past offer no danger, but present-day muggers are a danger. Group tours offer safety and intriguing bits of gossip and trivia.
As our Le Monde Creole tour came to an end, I overheard comments of surprise and pleasure from all the guests. "I had no idea," seemed to be the common refrain. Tours are offered twice daily and last 2.5 hours. Uneven pavement and narrow passageways are difficult for wheelchairs and strollers. The cost of the tour is $20 with a $3 discount for online purchases. Visit www.lemondecreole.com , or call 504/568-1801 for more information.