I had heard about swimming in the underground river and was very anxious to do so. Lifejackets were arranged by size, and there were plenty of personnel to help you—they were mandatory. It was optional to rent fins, snorkels, and masks ($10). We had our own snorkeling equipment and skipped the flippers. We deposited our belongings in a large numbered pink bag that was locked in front of us, and we were given a key with the matching number to hang around our neck. At the entrance to the underground river, you could spin the dial to help you decide whether to go along the left or right path. We went left and never did end up at the opening in the stained-glass plaza. The water felt somewhat chilly when you first got in, but would be welcoming if you had been wandering around the park in the heat. Because there was a current, you could drift slowly along, but most people chose to swim. At the entryway and at several points along the river, there were markers indicating how far it was until the next debarkation point and how many meters until the end. If you actually got out of the water before the end, you had to walk barefoot to the bag pickup point, so it made sense to keep on going. The whole trip took about 45 minutes.
Some parts were kind of spooky, as you were pretty much swimming in a dark tunnel, whereas most of it was only partly underground and the rest open to the sky. If you were using your snorkel gear, you could see that some parts were very, very deep and that others went very far underneath the rocks you were swimming under. At several points there was an employee in a wetsuit ostensibly ensuring you did not go in a wrong direction, though I did not see at that point that there was a wrong direction to go in. There was also a shivering employee with a camera so you could pick up a photo as you left the park. We were pretty happy to get to the end and emerge into the sunlight.
All along there was the possibility of seeing fish because you were swimming in a river, but basically the highlight was swimming underground. It is definitely not a good choice for those who are claustrophobic.