In the interest of full disclosure, we don’t really know how far the trail extends, since we’ve only gone 2 1/2 miles down the coast before turning back. There’s little shade and, while the scenery along the coast can be spectacular, it does get repetitive after awhile. Honestly, waves crashing against black lava, blowholes and lava arches are great, but after baking in the hot sun for an hour, it all seems more than enough. Turn back whenever you've had enough.

Waiananpanapana State Park, off the Hana Highway a few miles outside of Hana, has some interesting attractions besides the coast hike. There’s the Black Sand beach, of course. Most visitors pull in to the parking lot, take a picture or two from the overlook. They’ll walk down to the beach and, if adventurous, walk through the lava cave on the right side of the beach. A few may even go into the water if the sea is calm.

Slightly more adventurous types might take the short loop trail from the left of the parking lot to a freshwater cave - according to legend the unsuccessful hiding place for a Hawaiian princess.

Incidentally, be sure to bring a towel and take a refreshing dip in the cave after your coast hike!

The cliff here overlooks the beautiful royal blue ocean; a stunning site. Everything in this park was lush green, and brightly colored birds abounded - one or two of them hopping onto our table on occasion to join us for lunch. These birds are gentle and will almost eat right out of your hand. A quiet, gentle, naturally beautiful, unforgettable place. You will find a few picnic tables here (most of them in the shade) along with bathrooms, but not much else. This park is located just outside Hana, so it's convenient if you are staying in Hana or making the Road to Hana trip...or perhaps visiting the nearby Seven Sacred Pools. Waianapanapa State Park: 808/984-8109.

The parking area looks down to Pailoa Bay, complete with high black lava cliffs, a scenic sea arch in the bay, and a fine black sand beach. I have never had a trouble swimming there, but there can be big waves and strong currents. On the north side of the beach starts a one-mile section of the King’s Highway Coast Trail. This is a nice short hike on top of a sea cliff – beautiful!

Back up at the parking area, a paved trail heads southeast past the picnic/camping area first, then on to greater things. After ¼ mile, a prominent point features view back to the bay and a small blowhole. Another ¼ on is my favorite area, the tidepools. While there isn’t anything terribly interesting living in these tidepools, it is a fun place to hang out and watch the waves crash up and splash directly at you. There is a small heiau (sacred spot) about another ½ on the trail – please do not disturb the heiau. This trail goes on, eventually all the way to Hana. This is the longer section of the King’s Highway Coastal Trail (see my separate entry in my Heavenly Hana journal).

Finally, back at the parking lot again, there is a short loop trail to the north that leads to a small lava tube and pool with a rich history:

Rita Ariyoshi writes in her book Maui on My Mind:

"At Waianapanapa, there is a pool that seasonally turns blood red. Scientists claim the phenomenon is caused by the appearance of thousands of tiny red shrimp. The Hawaiians offer another love story. Kaakea, one of Hana’s many notoriously cruel chiefs, was jealous of the affection he thought existed between his wife and her brother. Afraid of her husband, the wife ran away and hid in a cave. When Kaakea found her hiding place by sighting her reflection in a pool at the cave’s entrance, he brutally murdered her. The pool turned bright red with her blood, as it does once a year to this day."

I have heard from others that it is possible to take an underwater flashlight and swim under a ledge at the cave pool to come up in other cave rooms. I would definitely not try this unless you are with someone who has done it before and knows the way to the rooms.

Waianapanapa State Park is located just north of Hana town near mile marker 32 (turn left about ½ mile after sign for Hana Airport). Camping at Waianapanapa is free, and there are nice-looking cabins for $50 per night (book well in advance). For more information, contact:

Division of State Parks
54 S. High Street
Wailuku, HI 96793
(808)984-8109