Roman history wouldn't be complete without the rotten scoundrel Nero during his reign as Emperor 53-68A.D. After almost two milleniums of trying to forget and erase his legacy, a new attraction officially opened for the Jubilee Year - public tours of what reamins from Nero's Golden Palace; also known as the Domus Aurea. It's located underground along the western edge of Parco Colle Oppio with entry in view of the Colosseum. Escorted tours are with reservation only based on availabilities and cost L10,000.
The guide explained in several languages about this - the major wing of Nero's digs surviving ONLY because it was used as foundational support for Trajan's Baths. Separate palaces were destroyed and covered the Palatine and Celian hills converging at a lake, where the Colosseum now stands, and the wealth of goldness glistened on the waters.
Expecting a palace, it was more like touring a cave with the 9 stone rooms of cavernous proportions. (Only a small portion has been opened to the public so far.) It's hard to fathom how they believed many porticos naturally illuminated the rooms/courtyards while giving vistas across the lake to the other palaces. It's believed the emperor's chambers make up about half of what's currently navigable; the other half solely used for entertaining including an octagonal shaped room with 8 large porticos leading off to former sections - porticos so large there basically are no walls with the actual room which is capped with a domed ceiling. Written reports of other extravagant features, including a rotating dining room, can not be pinpointed.
Other than the fact it's Nero's Palace, what's most impressive are remains of frescoes covering walls and ceilings in several rooms. Some are faded while others quite vividly colorful. There were also a couple of broken-up statues and several smaller, all-but undetected carvings which had worn smooth over time.
When touring this area, let it all sink in deeply. Flash photography is not permitted and darkness made photo ops all but impossible. Otherwise, it's the memory or nothing.