I cannot sing loudly enough the praises of Context Rome (formerly Scala Reale) as a walking tour organization. Information on my pre-arranged tours was waiting for me when I arrived at my hotel--a nice welcome to Rome. The Orientation Hike, almost 2 1/2 hours rather than the advertised two hours, was very informative, helped me "get my feet wet", and also knocked off a couple of venues (Baths of Diocletian, S. Maria Vittoria church) that were on my must-see list. Their 4-hour tour of the Colosseum and Forum was absolutely essential and one of the best sightseeing activities I have ever done. Not boring for one second, our guide seemed to cover and know everything there was to know. Otherwise, I would have been wandering aimlessly looking at broken columns and trying to understand why one arch was different from another. Scala Reale was also very organized and reliable; when a change in schedule became necessary (due to a lot of English-speakers having canceled), they not only faxed the schedule change to my hotel but called to discuss it as well.

The 4-hour intensive walking tours are conducted by classical historians, art historians, archaeologists and scholars. By putting the monuments, buildings and artwork in a framework, you'll begin to see them as a part of the whole history of Rome, and not just as buildings and works of art. The folks at Context: Rome are utterly committed to educating and enlightening visitors about the wonders of Rome and her history. Take, for example their Vatican Specialist (whomever it may be at the time). As an art historian, he/she is committed to educating his/her visitors and has a lot of knowledge and opinions on the inner workings of the Vatican art circle. He/she covers everything that you might not know was important (if you aren't an art historian yourself) by using the church's history as a back drop for the Vatican's collection of art throughout the centuries. The guide ties it all together, rather than just showing a piece here and there.

This particular tour--Roma Antica--led by guides for Scala Reala covers ancient Rome's highlights in four hours. We saw the Colosseum and the Roman Forum (the Palatine Hill was closed off or something or we would've gone there too). The $70 per person we paid Scala Reale includes a membership to their cultural organization (promoting preservation and understanding of Rome's history, etc.), a welcome packet that they have waiting for you at your hotel when you arrive (maps, brochures, recommendations, itineraries, etc.), invitations to any available orientation strolls in Rome (1-2 hour introduction walks) at no extra charge, and $50 for the actual Roma Antica walk. Our days in Rome were already well-scheduled so we couldn't make the "orientation strolls" at all, but had arranged with the tour group to do the Ancient Rome hike WELL IN ADVANCE. Only six tourists go with the guide, so you must make reservations early early early if you have a specific day and time in mind (think several months).

We met our guide Gregory and the other two couples at 2pm and began our journey at the Colosseum (I have a separate journal for that), where we saw a man get his pockets picked by a little boy right outside at the ticket area. WATCH OUT! By the way, you must pay your own separate admission into whatever sight you visit on the tour (Forum is free, Colosseum is 10,000 lire/person--$5). After Gregory's insights into the Colosseum (lots of disabusing of "Gladiator" myths), we traveled on to the Roman Forum (separate journal entry for that too). Really, I wouldn't have been able to tell heads or tails about this site if it were not for our guide's expertise. Gregory, originally from Rhode Island, has studied Classical literature, language, and history, and is currently studying for the priesthood at a Vatican university. He's been guiding tourists around Rome for three years and I can't say enough good things about him! I'm an academic (English professor) and can ask some pretty geeky historical questions--which I did--and Gregory was always up on the current scholarship about the area. My husband is an intellectual type (network systems administrator) and can ask similarly geeky questions--which he did--and Gregory always jumped right in. He's our type of guy--even can quote from "Life of Brian"!

All this is to say, really, that if you are a more casual tourist, who thinks four hours is too long to hike around an ancient site and hear the long list of emperors (including the unforgettable "Pupienus"--say it out loud) and their various exploits, this type of tour is not for you. But if you are a history buff, amateur archeologist, general smart-gal or smart-guy, get a tour with Gregory! He also takes people to the Vatican Museums, but that tour was full by the time we inquired.

Wear comfortable walking/hiking shoes, a hat and sunglasses, AND take an umbrella or rain poncho. Sunny Rome can scare up some unexpected rain showers in the afternoons!