t is the largest but never feels huge. The dome is beautiful. As you enter Michelangelo's Pieta is on the right, behind bulletproof glass. It is an amazing statue, both beautifully and movingly capturing a tender moment as Mary holds the lifeless body of her son in her arms.

There are very huge statues of founders of orders in the main halls. One of them was Juliana Falconieri, so I had my picture taken with her. It was good that I noticed where the names were. We also saw where bishops and cardinals regularly renew their vows. We saw the statue of Peter which pilgrims touch the feet of, and the intact body of John 23rd.

All of the "paintings" in the church are mosaics; beautiful, and they enabled us to take flash pictures, but a tad shiny, especially when using a flash.

The church compared itself favourably with other churches around the world. Larger than Westminster Abbey.... they had a mark on the floor to indicate the distance from the entrance of Westminster Abbey to the altar. It was well inside the church entrance!

Some popes were arranged in glass cases in alcoves around the church. Their faces were covered with either wax or silver masks. Strangely, not all popes were accorded this privilege. Some were buried under the floor in catacombs marked by a circular cover. No one could explain why some got the wax treatment whilst others were given the silver service.

Still, as an example of how to spend absolutely obscene amounts of money on interior decoration, St Peter's Basilica has to top the list (followed closely by the Sistine Chapel).

If you are not completely churched out, this one is a must see! (Along with the Sistine Chapel, also in Vatican City.)

The basics: There is a dress code to get into most of Rome’s cathedrals, including St. Peter’s Basilica. No shorts, short skirts, bare shoulders, or excessively open tops (too much cleavage). To get into the Basilica, you’ll need to get into the line on the right side of the Basilica; as you are looking at it. If you are questioning your wardrobe, the metal detector attendant is not the final say whether you get in or not. There is another set of attendants specifically there to screen out inappropriately dressed individuals. Bottom line is, don’t stand in line for fifteen minutes to get sent back. Wear tasteful clothing.

Once passed through the fashion police, if you go straight, you’ll find some restrooms and a place to check any bags or items you are carrying. Baby strollers will have to be checked. There also is a section there to rent audio tour guides for inside the Basilica and the Dome (5 € plus I.D.).

Go up the stairs and you will be at the front of the Basilica. If you go straight, it’ll take you inside St. Peter’s. If you follow the path to the right, you’ll find another line to go up to the Dome on top of St. Peter’s. I highly recommend going up there. The costs to get to the dome are: 5 € to use the lift (elevator) or 4 € to use the stairs. I suggest you pay the extra euro. There are over 300 steps including the lift. And these are no ordinary steps; you’ll go through spiral stairwells, slanted hallways, and tight corridors. If you are extremely claustrophobic, you may not want to take this tour. Small children will also need help getting to the top. At the top, you have the best view of Rome. You’ll have a 360-degree view of the area too. Check out the rest of Vatican City from there. When you get back down, you’ll end up in front of the Basilica again.

As soon as I walked into St. Peter's Basilica, I was at a loss for words. I have never seen such an impressive building in my life. The first thing I know about was, "man, that’s a lot of marble." Allow yourself plenty of time to explore inside. There are several sculptures and monuments to Popes of the past. See the famous alter centered over the original burial site of St. Peter. As you stand in front of the altar, look for some stairs to your back left. They are right next to a large sculpture. I missed them the first time in was there. They will lead you below to see some sarcophagus of Popes past and I think the restored site of St. Peter’s burial.

Four huge pillars support the 44 metre diameter dome, each containing one of the major relics and decorated accordingly. I can’t help but be fascinated by the mysterious medieval world of relics; the stories, the gory obsession with skulls, blood and other sacred bodily appendages, the unwavering faith in their providence. St. Peter is supposedly tucked under the floor somewhere; a piece of the Holy Cross is here too, as are the spear of St. Longinus and a handkerchief.

Tour this grand space at your leisure, there is so much to take in. The papal tombs compete with one another for your attention and with other sculptures, many by Bernini. When you have absorbed all you can I would recommend the ascent of the dome. This was the largest queue we encountered - €5 to go part way in the lift, €4 if you take the gentle sloping steps instead. The interior of the lower stairwells are reminiscent of a gent’s lavatory – serving as something of a deterrent to the erstwhile Italian graffiti artists. The walkways are cramped, particularly up inside the dome where you clamber between its outer and inner layers. During this time you may well become a little too knowledgeable about your fellow climber’s hygiene if you get my drift. For a short while you make your way around the inside of the dome itself and have a particularly alarming view back down to the floor of the Basilica and the ant people scurrying around. You are perfectly safe though, honest.

A little more management of the crowds is in order – it would make the ascent much more pleasant. It is also difficult to enjoy the views from the top with so many others jostling for the perfect photo down to the piazza. The Blonde and I didn’t tarry long at the cupola although the final narrow staircase makes you yearn for a one-way system.

St. Peter’s is difficult to get to grips with in one visit. There are so many features of interest that individually would draw huge crowds and yet they’re all here…and then there’s the Vatican museum and its treasures around the corner. Catholic or not, St. Peter’s, the papacy and Rome have had such an impact on so many aspects of western life that it is impossible to ignore the significance of this place. It left me in awe.