Description: Of the six historic Venetian quarters, I must admit to having a particular liking for Dorsoduro, which has become like a charming old friend to me in contrast to the glamorous and popular acquaintance that is the much more famous San Marco. Although somewhat on the tourist trail due to the presence of a handful of interesting attractions, it is for the most part relatively tranquil and has a pleasantly lived-in feel that really appeals.
Undoubtedly, the single most important sight is the Accademia Gallery, which is located close to the unusual wide wooden bridge that it shares a name with. The edifice originally housed a convent and then a school, before becoming the home of the renowned museum. The large collection is undoubtedly impressive, and includes works by renowned Renaissance masters such as Bellini, Carpaccio, Mantegna, Tintoretto, and of course Titian. Meanwhile, anyone who shares my preference for 20th century art should enjoy the nearby Peggy Guggenheim Collection.
Also extremely noteworthy is the Church of St Mary of the Salutation, which towers above the area's numerous and generally fairly small other places of worship, both literally and metaphorically. Built during the late 17th century, the domed structure is a relative newcomer to the venerable Venetian skyline, but the prime canal side location, immense scale and distinctive baroque design combine to make it one of the most prominent landmarks in the city. The incredibly light octagonal interior hosts a typically Venetian array of religious paintings, but the highlight is the high altar, which features a spectacular gold and red icon of the virgin and child.
However, its true charms only become apparent when exploring the quieter parts of the district, away from the aforementioned popular sights. Generally, getting to know a more real, less fabulous side of the city by simply wandering around and passing the time of day with the friendly locals is a great experience. The multitude of peaceful canals, alleys and squares are lined with many examples of some of the finest domestic architecture in the city, which provides an appealing counterpoint to the often over the top splendour found elsewhere. The Rio di San Trovaso is a particularly good place to visit, as it is not only a picturesque waterway, but is also home to an operating gondola workshop. Such places are uncommon these days, and watching the production of the symbolic boats using traditional methods is a fascinating and rare treat. Nearby is the lovely Cantina di Vini già Schiavi, one of Dorsoduro's many places to enjoy a reasonably priced drink or snack in a convivial environment. Finally, strolling along the promenade that faces onto the Giudecca canal is a very nice experience, and also a good excuse to taste what is reputed to be the best ice cream in Venice at Gelateria Nico.
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