The area between the Accademia and San Trovaso is Venice’s most elegant and artisty quarter, home to many artists and writers. Some of the finest domestic architecture in Venice is concentrated here. The reason is simple - there were not many places among the lagoon's mud-banks where Venice's early settlers could be confident that their dwellings wouldn't slither down into the water, but with Dorsoduro they were on relatively solid ground (the sestiere's name means "hard back"). During the day the paintings of Dorsoduro's art galleries and religious institutions that draw most visitors across the Ponte dell' Accademia. The Gallerie dell'Accademia is the area's number one destination, and figures on most itineraries as the place to make for when the Piazza San Marco sights have been done. The huge church of Santa Maria della Salute is the most beautiful church in Venice.  Close

Undoubtedly, the single most important sight is the Accademia Gallery, which is located close to the unusual wide wooden bridge that it shares a name with. The edifice originally housed a convent and then a school, before becoming the home of the renowned museum. The large collection is undoubtedly impressive, and includes works by renowned Renaissance masters such as Bellini, Carpaccio, Mantegna, Tintoretto, and of course Titian. Meanwhile, anyone who shares my preference for 20th century art should enjoy the nearby Peggy Guggenheim Collection.

Also extremely noteworthy is the Church of St Mary of the Salutation, which towers above the area's numerous and generally fairly small other places of worship, both literally and metaphorically. Built during the late 17th century, the domed structure is a relative newcomer to the venerable Venetian skyline, but the prime canal side location, immense scale and distinctive baroque design combine to make it one of the most prominent landmarks in the city. The incredibly light octagonal interior hosts a typically Venetian array of religious paintings, but the highlight is the high altar, which features a spectacular gold and red icon of the virgin and child.

However, its true charms only become apparent when exploring the quieter parts of the district, away from the aforementioned popular sights. Generally, getting to know a more real, less fabulous side of the city by simply wandering around and passing the time of day with the friendly locals is a great experience. The multitude of peaceful canals, alleys and squares are lined with many examples of some of the finest domestic architecture in the city, which provides an appealing counterpoint to the often over the top splendour found elsewhere. The Rio di San Trovaso is a particularly good place to visit, as it is not only a picturesque waterway, but is also home to an operating gondola workshop. Such places are uncommon these days, and watching the production of the symbolic boats using traditional methods is a fascinating and rare treat. Nearby is the lovely Cantina di Vini già Schiavi, one of Dorsoduro's many places to enjoy a reasonably priced drink or snack in a convivial environment. Finally, strolling along the promenade that faces onto the Giudecca canal is a very nice experience, and also a good excuse to taste what is reputed to be the best ice cream in Venice at Gelateria Nico.