Of all the shrines in Japan, none are more shrouded in controversy than
Yasukuni Jinja in Tokyo. According to the official website it was founded in
1869 by Imperial Command "for worship of the divine spirits of those who
sacrificed themselves for their country". The Boshin Civil War, which led to
the fall of the Tokugawa Shogunate and restoration of the Emperor, saw the death
of 3500 people fighting for the Imperial cause. These were the first Kami
enshrined in Yasukuni.
More souls followed from the Russo-Japanese War, which announced the arrival
of Japan on the world stage, the First World War, the Japanese-Chinese War and
eventually the Second World War. In total almost two and a half million souls
are enshrined here. The shrine thus became a place of worship for war bereaved
families and a type of national cemetery. However, in 1978 the authorities of
the shrine (control was taken away from the central government following the
division of state and religion after the WWII) decided to also enshrine the
souls of Class A war criminals at the shrine and the place has been even more
controversial ever since. On the anniversary of the end of the Second World War,
15 August, right wing politicians visit the shrine despite protests from Japan’s
neighbors and many domestic organizations. Only three Prime Ministers have
visited the shrine since 1978 and none more than once as relations with
especially China and Korea were severely damaged on each occasion.
The controversy apart, the shrine is well worth visiting with beautiful and
large grounds. The massive torii are uncommon in the first being from steel and
the second from bronze and not wood or stone as is more common. Note the huge
golden Chrysanthemum emblem of the Imperial family on the gates of the shrine.
Somehow the shrine escaped the damage of the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake and the
firebombing of Tokyo during the war.
The shrine has some of the best cherry blossom viewing spots in Tokyo. The
official decision on whether the blossoms are in bloom in Tokyo is based on some
of the trees here. Apart from cherry blossom time, the shrine festivals in
spring and summer also draw huge crowds when the grounds are decorated with huge
displays of paper lanterns
Behind the shrine is the Yushukan War Museum. It is currently undergoing
major repairs to the building but should reopen at the end of 2002. An
enlightened interpretation of history is possible but highly unlikely as the
shrine is controlled by ultra conservatives that have blocked any attempts to
remove the Kami of the war criminals from the shrine. The old museum had
displays of Japanese military history from the restoration of Emperor Meiji up
to the Second World War. Displays were rather limited, as can be expected from
the side that lost the war, but included an authentic "Kaiten" or human
torpedo and guns from the battleship Yamato.