Wat Phra Keo

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Editor Pick

Chiang Rai: Wat Phra Keo

  • March 11, 2008
  • Rated 5 of 5 by SeenThat from Tel Aviv, Israel
Chiang Rai: Wat Phra Keo

In many Asian cultures history is not important. Records from past eras are sketchy or inexistent. In those places, cities and cultures seem to have appeared from nowhere and after a while to have returned there without any obvious reason. There are two obvious exceptions: The Chinese and the Thai.

In those cultures, every little administrative detail is recorded with excruciating detail. Hierarchical status of people and buildings are described until a Western mind gets lost; everything is surrounded by a rigid set of rules. Interestingly, this behavior is reflected in both languages*; being tonal ones they do not give their speakers even the freedom of expressing their emotions through the use of tones as it is done in Indo-European and Semitic languages.

Buddhist temples in Thailand are subject to a complex system of evaluation run by the monarchy. Events in its far past determine its actual status. Nothing is forgotten nor forgiven. Compared to this rigid system; the Mosaic Law looks suddenly as a toddler's game. The redemptive doctrine of Christianity looks here - as warned by Apostle Paul - as complete madness.

Chiang Rai

In Chiang Rai, this plays in favor of a relatively small and indistinctive temple placed on the town's outskirts.

Chiang Rai, a small town combining a rural ambience with most commodities of bigger cities, is in Thailand's far north, next to the triple border with Laos and Myanmar. The Gate to the Golden Triangle is a fast growing trekking area as well, but between these huge centers of activity hide many silent attractions of historical interest; among them is Wat Phrae Keo.

Reaching the temple

Chiang Rai is accessible from Bangkok, Chiang Mai and all the main Thai cities. Bangkok offers direct flights and excellent buses; the last depart from the Mo Chit Northern Terminal.

From Chiang Mai, buses leave to Chiang Rai from the Akaed terminal; pay attention since its name is usually spelled Arcade, but do to peculiarities of the Thai scripture it is pronounce Akaed. The trip in a direct bus longs between three and four hours, and you will arrive to the bus terminal in central Chiang Rai; many good guesthouses and hotels are in the vicinity.

To find the temple advance north a long block from the terminal area until you reach the junction with Thanon Phaholyothin and turn to the west (left). Cross the Clock Tower, after which the street changes its name to Thanon Banphaprakan and then turn to the north (right) once reaching the junction with Thanon Trairat: the temple is at the left side after three blocks.

Wat Phra Keo

Chiang Rai is the proper place to begin this quest after the Emerald Buddha since this is where it began its modern story. In 1390AC (or 1933BE of the Buddhist Era as calculated in Thailand), King Mahabhrom of Chiang Rai took it from Kampangpetch in < Cambodia and hide it inside a stupa, where only in 1977BE (1434AC) the stupa was split open by a lightning and the image revealed.

Mueng Komp, governor of Chiang Rai in those days, reported to King Fang Sam Nae of Chiang Mai who sent an elephant procession to bring it to Lampang two years after the discovery. The Emerald Buddha was brought to Chiang Mai from Lampang only after a long and unpredicted delay there.

While in Chiang Rai, the image was kept at Wat Payier (Bamboo Forest Temple), which after the discovery changed its name to Wat Phrae Keo (Temple of the Holy Glass Buddha).

Despite the many years of absence from its discovery spot, the Emerald Buddha halo still surrounds the temple that enjoys much prestige among the Thais and was awarded a royal third class Wat degree in 1978 despite its humble size and relative insignificance.

Since 1991 there is a good replica of the Emerald Buddha donated by a Chinese denizen of Chiang Rai. The temple itself shows a good degree of artisanship and is worth a visit on itself.

From journal Indiana Jones and the Emerald Buddha

Editor Pick

Wat Phra Keo

  • July 8, 2006
  • Rated 5 of 5 by mightywease from Carshalton, United Kingdom
Wat Phra Keo

Set aside plenty of time to visit the Royal Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, it's not just that this is one of the city's major tourist attractions and therefore full of visitors but that there is just so much detail to take in. Your senses will be crowded with the vivid flood of colour from the fantastically decorated buildings and statues, the sound of bells along the rooflines, and the smell of incense.

The Emerald Buddha—a figure of great reverence in Thailand—dressed in one of his gold costumes (they are changed dependent on the season) is housed in a wonderfully decorated Chapel Royal. Outside is the almost iconic shape of the golden chedi, in which ashes of the Buddha are housed, fierce looking demon figures can be found guarding other buildings, and you can follow the whole story of the Ramakian depicted in paintings on the arcade surrounding the temple complex. The latter is also a good place to shade yourself from the sun, the crowds, and the quite overwhelming impression that the temple can make on you.

The Palace, by contrast to the classical Thai architecture of Wat Phra Kaew, is almost a Western looking Pavilion (it was designed by a British architect) topped with Thai spires. It is currently being renovated so any photo opportunities are rather scuppered by scaffolding.

There is a very strict dress code for the Wat and Palace complex. You should wear long trousers or skirts that are below the knee and shirts with sleeves (a shawl/wrap over a sleeveless top will not do). If you don't adhere to the dress code you can borrow suitable wear from an office near the entrance.

This is one of the places where you are likely to encounter the "Grand Palace isn't open, I'll take you to another temple" scam. Be polite and say you'd like to find out for yourself. The Palace/Temple complex is open everyday 8:30am - 3:30pm.

From journal Bangkok - Flying Angels, Fallen Angels

Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo

  • February 12, 2006
  • Rated 5 of 5 by writeonthespot from Bacolod, Philippines
Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo

The Grand Palace is a majestic view to behold. At night, it sparkles like the stars, while during the day, it glows like sun. Beside it is the Wat Phra Kaeo that houses the most highly venerated Buddha. People flock to the Grand Palace every day. Some are in a guided tour, while others go on their own. Tourists shouldn’t miss going to the Grand Palace, which is one of the icons of Bangkok. It would take half a day to tour the compound. When our friends took us to the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo, I was dumbfounded. We had to make sure we didn't disrespect the place or the believers who were praying. It was the foundation day of the Chakri Dynasty, so we were warned not to step at the red carpet reserved for the king.

From journal Nightlife in Bangkok

Editor Pick

What's a Wat?

  • December 16, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Ishtar from Bayside, New York
What's a Wat?

A Wat is very simply a Buddhist temple, where historically, it was the center of learning. No one writes specifically about Wat Phra Kaeo , as it usually gets mentioned via the Grand Palace visit. However, as temples go, this is the most important in all of Thailand and the most revered, as it houses the Emerald Buddha image (Phra Kaeo)since 1782. The image was carved from a single block of jade.

.There are no monks living here, as this Wat serves as a royal chapel.

It is strictly forbidden to take pictures while in the chapel, but one can see his image on any number of websites where people have captured a photo by zooming in from the outside.

The story surrounding this image is interesting; in the mid 15th century, the Emerald Buddha was found, covered in plaster, in Chiang Rai, a city north of Bangkok. From there it was moved to Lampang by a king ? and toward the last quarter of the 15th century, yet another Chiang Mai king called it his own. Around 1550, through political machinations of marriage and power, the Buddha was moved to Laos, were it remained for a dozen years or so. When the capital of Laos was changed to Ventiane, the Emerald Buddha followed suit and had a rest there for over 200 years. Finally captured as a city by King Rama I, the image was brought back to Thonburi, a name that at the time designated Bangkok. And it arrived at the Temple specifically built for it in 1784.

The temple itself is small by comparison to the other mammoth and magnificent buildings of the Grand Palace. At the entrance are gargatuan mythical lions called singhas , and the huge door panels are inlaid with mother of pearl. When I went into the chapel at first, I couldn't find the Buddha. Our guide pointed it out to me, as it sits on a very high pedestal which measures 11 meters. It is surrounded by umbrellas, much the same as the ones we had seen in Bali, during ceremonies. Our guide then showed us, in photos, the three seasonal costumes worn by the Buddha, which are summer, winter and rainy. His majesty, the King, presides over each costume change.

The walls are covered with paintings which are too fantastic to be able to describe. Two large Buddha images stand in front of the altar; they are dedications of a grandson to his father and grandfather, Kings Rama I and II. A series of paintings depicting special events in the life of Lord Buddha are set above the window frames; the ones behind the altar denote Buddhist Cosmology.

Please ensure that you are dressed respectfully when you visit; this means no bare arms or legs. In the event that you lapse, they will rent you clothing with a Bs. 100 deposit which you can get back upon returning.

From journal Thailand Ties - Part I

Editor Pick

Wat Phra Kaeo

  • March 19, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by nmagann from Ventura, California
Wat Phra Kaeo

This is the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the royal chapel of His Majesty the King of Thailand. This sacred image of Buddha was made from a single piece of jasper and is 61 centimeters high. It was discovered in Chiang Mai in 1436 when covered in stucco a crack appeared and Buddha shined through. With some 100 buildings and 200 years of history, the architecture is truly a work of art. Murals adorn walls depicting Buddha’s lives. What amazed me was not the size of the Emerald Buddha, but how high up it was placed almost on a pyramid of smaller very decorative golden Buddhas and other carvings. No pictures are allowed, but postcards of the Emerald Buddha are available. There is so much detail is would be impossible to take a picture of the Emerald Buddha and all of the items leading up to it. Shoes must be taken off, and you are immediately directed to sit down. It is quite awe inspiring with so much to take in. Don’t forget to look at the ceiling, walls, fixtures and offerings left. There is so much here, from museums to the various architectural buildings to the halls and galleries, it defies description. The Wat Phra Kaeo Museum exhibits costumes of the Emerald Buddha. Hours are 8:00-5:00 for $5.00

From journal Bewildered in Bangkok

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