My girlfriend and I headed to Wat Pho after several hours of already exploring the Grand Palace next door. At mid-day in June, the heat and humidity had already caused us to sweat profusely and we were contemplating just giving in and going back to the hotel. We're glad that we instead decided to stick it out and check out Wat Pho while we were in the area.

Wat Pho is the oldest and largest wat (temple) in Bangkok. It also houses Thailand's largest reclining Buddha image and the largest number of Buddha images in Thailand. The giant gold buddha reclines at 46 meters long by15 meters high. The bottom of the feet are especially cool, as they have an extremely complicated and detailed design. As with the Grand Palace next door, dress conservatively (although the rules definitely seem to be a little more slack at Wat Pho).

There are lots of really cool buildings, statues, and small gardens in the complex, including several temples. Within the walls of Wat Pho are also several schools including a children's school and, more importantly, the Wat Pho Thai Massage School. If you want a really good, authentic Thai massage, make sure to get one here before leaving. A word to the wise, the massages here can be a little TOO hard- and slightly painful if you aren't prepared...

Wat (Thai for temple) Pho is right next to the Grand Palace. It’s the home for the gigantic reclining Buddha, and it is really an awesome sight! Surprisingly, there weren’t many crowds at Wat Pho, so we could wander around at our leisure. The Buddha is really gigantic, but offers a great photo op.

On the grounds, there also seems to be a primary school of some sort, and as we were wandering the premises, there were boys playing soccer. One of the boys kicked the ball and it smacked me right on the shoulder! I feigned pain, and he genuinely looked upset, but I laughed it off. We found some smaller figures and other areas of prayer.

We had given up on finding the Wat Pho Massage school, when we saw it near the exit. We were very hot and tired, and the AC was very welcome!! We each got a half hour massage for 260 Baht each. It was very good (although quite hard, so if you like a softer massage, this may not be the one for you). I heard and read that the wait might be long, but at 2pm in the afternoon, there was no wait at all.

I believe the entrance fee was 50 Baht.

Wat Pho, also known as Wat Phra Chetuphon or Temple of the Reclining Buddha, is located next to Bangkok’s Grand Palace, on its southern side.

This is Bangkok’s oldest and biggest temple; built in 1688 (before the city’s foundation!) it has ninety-five pagodas and 394 Buddha images, an amount unmatched by any other temple in town.

Timing

Due to the popularity of the site, it is recommended to visit the religious attractions as early as possible and plan for a relaxing massage afterwards.

A Thai Wat

Thai wats follow an archetypal structure. Two surrounding walls separate them from the world. The Buddhavasa or Phutthawat is the area between the walls; it includes the monks’ dormitories, an Hor Rakang (Bell Tower) and Buddha statues along the walls.

The Bot or Ubosoth (Ordination Hall) is the name of the sacred building within the inner space, into which only monks enter; it contains a Buddha statue. Nearby is the Viharn (Assembly Hall) which is open to the public and contains the most important Buddha statue in the compound.

Completing the inner courtyard is a stuppa or chedi, shaped as a three layers structure. The bottom resembles a turned over rice bowl, the upper layers resemble a folded Buddha garment and his walking stick. Beyond being a metaphor of Buddhist doctrine, chedis sometimes contains relics.

The Reclining Buddha

Beyond its impressive statistics, Wat Pho is best known for the Reclining Buddha. If an ideology does not impress, the size of its structures may compensate; this seems to be the case with the Buddha which is forty-six meters long and fifteen meters high. Its soles are decorated with 108 Lakshanas or auspicious signs inlaid with mother-of-pearl. The graceful Bot at the compound centre has attractive teak doors showing stories from the Ramayana and decorated with mother-of-pearl.

Open Encyclopedia

In 1832, the king ordered to decorate the walls with diagrams on history, literature, astrology, medicine and animal husbandry and transformed thus the temple into an open encyclopedia. As time passed by, the institution began specializing and nowadays it is famous for its Thai Traditional Massage School, which is considered to be the best in the country.

Massages

The school offers massages, practical courses and it is still a center for traditional medicine. The massages include body massage, body massage with herbs, and foot massage, and cost around six dollars per hour; the establishment is open daily between 8am until 5pm. The courses offered are Thai massage, therapeutic and healing massage and foot massage; more information can be obtained at phone 2211-2974 or at the premises.

Thai massage is very different from other forms of massage and is based on the twisting and bending of every limb in somewhat unconventional ways. Slightly scaring at the first time, it provides a wonderful relaxation and is able to heal light mechanical problems after a trek or other strenuous physical activity.

If you like Buddhas, you will be in your element here in Thailand. I was buddha’ed out by the end of this trip. Emerald Buddha, little Buddha, big Buddha and the Granddaddy of them all - the reclining Buddha!

First seen by me at the very beginning of "The Beach", where strangely enough, the reclining Buddha resides along the street. Poetic film license because here in Bangkok the Reclining Buddha rests in Wat Pho- Bangkok’s largest temple.

This Buddha really is a wondrous sight. 150 feet of gold leaf splendor as he reclines (hence the name) one arms along his body the other propping up his head. The feet at the other end were 9 feet long decorated so intricately with Mother of Pearl which is a characteristic of the Buddha.

Wat Pho is 20 acres with over 1000 Buddha images to view if the reclining fellow doesn’t hold your interest too long. For me at least I just loved watching the numerous Monks that wandered the temple grounds, serenely floating by in their orange robes. Karl accused me of having a Monk fetish by the end of the trip as I just couldn’t help watching and wanting to talk with them. Though quiet and serious looking they would instantly start giggling when I spoke to them. Indeed quite endearing!

Wandering around the beautifully decorated chedi of Wat Pho you can almost forget you are in the bustling city of Bangkok, the rambling complex can seem more suited to a rural rather than urban setting. That is not to say that it doesn’t get busy but the largest wat in Thailand does allow you to find space for yourself.

You are most likely to encounter other visitors and worshippers around the magnificent reclining Buddha. The statue is 151 feet (46m) long and covered in gold leaf, as you wander along its length you pass smaller shrines until, reaching the feet, you can let your gaze travel back towards the head and appreciate what a truly amazing object it is. The soles of the feet are inlaid with mother of pearl, and on the other side of the Buddha are 108 bronze bowls. Placing a coin in each of them is supposed to be auspicious and bring merit, if you don’t have 108 coins on you then for a small donation you can buy a pot of coins allowing you to complete the ritual.

Take time to enter some of the smaller temple buildings surrounding the Reclining Buddha. In one, we were invited to join other worshippers to shake fortune sticks, a memorable experience.

Wat Pho exudes a sense of calm and contemplation, the perfect antidote for fraught senses. And for fraught bodies the complex is also a centre of traditional Thai medicine and massage. A great place to revive both body and soul.