If possible, when inside the tram, stand on the right side while going up, for the best views. This isn't always possible as the tram can get pretty crowded, and people are vying for the best spots. The tram operates from 7am to midnight and runs very frequently. We went up and down both during the day and another time at night to contrast the view with and without daylight and we were happy we did as the skyline at night is also magnificent.

The extraordinary views are first glimpsed as the tram ascends almost vertically up the Peak, but once on a top, a viewing platform and walks around the Peak really let you soak in the amazing views below while helping you orient yourself to the city. Upon reaching the top, you enter the modern Peak Tower, which has retail stores, game areas, cafes, and restaurants. The chain restaurant Movenpick Marche is here which doubles as a food market. Next to it, is a cafe that offers free Internet access.

Exiting the Peak Tower, you can walk down the walkway past the artists selling their paintings. There are also 2 access roads around the Peak if you feel like taking a short hike.

We returned at night to experience the popular Peak Cafe which even has its own web site at www.peakcafe.com where you can make your reservation. The night we went, there was an Australian chef and thus the menu contained Australian specialties. I had crab cakes and a kangaroo rump which I was not thrilled with since I have had kangaroo before and this one was too tough and the tendon too stringy for my liking, but the Australian Shiraz wine, as usual, was very pleasing to me. However it was also a costly dinner at 303 HK$ before tip for 2 of us. The Peak is a highly visited site and there is good reason for it.

I hopped on the old tram that ascends to Victoria Peak, which doesn’t take that long but climbs in parts at a very steep angle. The views are amazing, making the city below seem quite magical. The water and trees keep the immense urban sprawl in check. Once you arrive at the top, though, the modern world rears it's ugly head and you are confronted yet again by the ugly spectre of Hong Kong: shopping. The Peak Tower is yet another mall, with useless shops and pricey restaurants. They even saw fit to add a Ripley's Believe It or Not museum, as if the exciting views alone didn't merit the trip to the Peak. It was a challenge figuring out how to escape from the mall, and I walked a few flights down an emergency exit ramp only to be dead-ended and climbing all the way back up to start again.

Eventually I made it up to the platform where you can check out the views of the city below. I was in no hurry to get back down to Central and thought it might be fun to hike down the hill. After hesitating on which path to take home I decided instead to go up and see the Victoria Peak Gardens. After a half hour I finally reached the summit, catching the tail end of the sunset. I walked through the park and then took night shots of the city. The hike down from the Peak to Central only took a half hour or so, and next time I might try a more adventurous down the back side of the hill towards the village of Aberdeen.