The very first day we spent in Jerusalem happened to be a Friday, and we did as good Christian pilgrims do on a Friday in Jerusalem- we walked down the Via Dolorosa, the `Path of Sorrow’ along which Christ is supposed to have carried his cross. Whether that’s historically correct is debatable, but the experience of tracing the route is truly amazing. Every Friday, a procession makes its way along the Via Dolorosa (starting at Stephen’s Gate) and into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where Christ is said to have been entombed. The procession begins at 3 in the afternoon, taking about an hour to reach the Sepulchre- and everybody’s invited to join in the walk.
Snaking its way through the Old City, the Via Dolorosa starts at the old Al Omariyye College, its courtyard filled with orange trees. It’s a quiet, serene place, citrus-scented and with an aura of peace about it. A few monks, clad in brown habits, lead the procession, which makes its way through cobbled streets, past old houses, stone churches, and shops selling everything from fruit and vegetable to `I love Jerusalem’ T-shirts. Along the path are the `Twelve Stations of the Cross’- the twelve spots where events connected with the journey took place: the condemnation of Christ; the lifting of the Cross; the flagellation of Christ, and more. At each of the stations a carved stone plaque marks the spot, depicting the incident which occurred. At each of the stations, the Franciscan brothers stop for prayers- in Latin- and you may well find some unlikely-looking people joining in- I found myself standing next to a young man in faded jeans who recited the prayers- in Latin- just as fervently.
The final five stations of the Cross- including the marble slab on which Christ’s body lay- are situated within the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The Church, a high-domed cathedral built by the Empress Helena, mother of Constantine, abuts the neighbouring Coptic Church, also worth a visit once you’ve finished the walk.