In 1867-8 the Tokugawa Shogunate, which ruled Japan from Edo (current Tokyo) came to a fall. The Emperor Meiji moved from the ancient capital in Kyoto to Tokyo and set up an enlightened government that hastened Japan’s integration into the modern world after two and a half centuries of self-imposed isolationism.

Ueno Hill was the scene of the last stand between the Imperial forces and the Shogun’s supporters at the end of the Meiji Restoration in 1868. Although Edo Castle fell peacefully, 3,000 Shogun loyalists held out at Ueno. What is the modern park of today used to be temple grounds of the huge Kan’eiji Temple, one of the family temples of the Tokugawa Shogunate. Outnumbered and outgunned by the Imperial forces the loyalist decided to destroy the Kan’eji Temple and set fire to many structures. The Imperial forces destroyed most of what remained after the final battle.

What remained of the original temple and the Tokugawa Shogunate graveyard can be seen behind the Tokyo National Museum. It is long walk to this area and it can easier be reached from the Uguisudani Station, one stop from Ueno on the JR Yamanote line) Don’t make this part a priority if pressed for time.

The Toshogu Shrines, built in honor of the first shogun Ieyasu Toskugawa, was part of the Kan’eiji complex. It is the only shrine in Tokyo designated a National Treasure and somehow remained intact despite the calamities that befell other structures in this area. It is an excellent example of the rich decorations that the early Tokugawas favored. It was built in the early 17th century and one of several Tokugawa shrines that were erected all over Japan following the post-mortem deification of Ieyasu as Sun God of the East. The approach is lined with 200 stone lanterns donated by nobles vying for favor as well as numerous bronze lanterns. These lanterns are not used for lighting but rather to burn incense at certain religious ceremonies. During festivals and cherry blossom season the approach to the shrine is lined with food stalls and temporary restaurants.

The photogenic five-story pagoda (1639) inside Ueno Zoo and the rebuild Benten Do on an island in Shinobazu Pond are also remains of the original Kan’eiji complex. The small Kiyomizudo Temple also survived the calamities of 1868 and 1945. It often visited by couples wishing for children. Directly opposite this temple, a narrow avenue lined with orange-red torii and several pairs of stairs lead to a small shrine complex, Gojo Shrine. No signs are in English here but it is a more interesting way to reach the pond than the main route.

The main cultural reason to go to Ueno is to visit the museums. Five major museums are located close to each other inside or next to Ueno Park.

The most important museum is the Tokyo National Museum, which houses the largest collection of Japanese art in the world. The museum is spread over various buildings and displays changes frequently. It has a collection of about 90,000 pieces of which less than 5,000 are on display on any given time. Most displays have English name cards as well, although it may be hard to make much sense out of it if you are not well versed in Japanese arts. The museum often has special visiting exhibitions from other countries. The gift shop is well above average but fairly pricey. Admission costs yen 400 and there may be additional charges for special exhibitions.

The Science Museum is mainly aimed at Japanese school children with interactive displays. The use of English is limited but it is still fun to visit. It has an impressive display of Antarctica and the ubiquitous dinosaurs skeletons that seems a requirement for all science museums of late. This museum can get very crowded with school groups and should not be a priority when time is limited. Admission is yen 400.

The Museum of Western Art is always very popular with the Japanese public. It may seem odd to visit western art in Japan but this museum has the largest collection of Western art in Asia with a special focus on Rodin and French impressionists. The impressive collection includes 57 sculptures by Rodin including Gates of Hell, The Thinker and Burghers of Calais. (The latter three can be seen without tickets.) Admission is yen 420 but can go up to yen 1500 for special exhibitions.

The Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum has a collection of about 3,000 modern Japanese artworks, which are exhibited twice a year for about 3 months at a time. Entry is free. Admission for visiting exhibitions can be expensive though. The Public Gallery is rented out to other art organizations that set their own admission fees - usually high.

The Shitamachi Museum tries to recreate the conditions in which ordinary people lived in Tokyo at the turn of the nineteenth century. The exhibition recreated a typical back street as well as merchant houses and workshops. The second floor has an eclectic collection of old stuff - seemingly anything old that was donated by people of Taito Ward, the ward in which Ueno is located, is exhibited here. The museum is very hands-on and visitors are allowed to touch most things and climb around in the houses. It is very popular with school groups but foreign visitors are also made welcome with ample English signs and explanations. Admission is yen 300.

Ueno Park is a major attraction, especially for families on a day trip. It also houses some of the most important museums in Japan. More attractions are the zoo, shrines and concert halls.

Ueno Park is a wide-open space. As a park it does not have much going for it but the added attractions make it a popular venue. It is one of the most favored spots for cherry blossom viewing parties but even at other times there are always groups getting together here over weekends. It gets extremely crowded during cherry blossom season and a good spot is hard to obtain. It is common practice for one member of the group to sleep overnight to reserve a favored spot and to sit and protect it the whole day until the other revelers arrive in the late afternoon. Karaoke, for better or worse, is always available and often simultaneously at various places - not necessarily out of earshot of each other!

On the weekends, food stalls are usually set up all over the park and food such as fried noodles, yakitori (chicken skewers), sausage on a stick, squid on a stick and rice balls are commonly for sale. Drinks are also available but at a premium compared to vending machines and convenience stores outside the park.

Ueno Zoo is a popular attraction for families. It is not a particularly impressive zoo but it does have both pandas and penguins, which are favorites of Japanese children. The pandas are housed in giant glass fronted cases and have their own security guards to keep the crowds at bay. The zoo has some 12,000 other animals in cages of varied sizes but mainly tend towards cramped, by modern standards.

There is also a smaller fun fair with rides for smaller children. The attractions are fairly old fashioned by Tokyo standards but the toddlers seem not to care too much.

The huge Shinobazu Pond attracts waterfowl and people alike. The pond is divided into three parts: one for lotus lilies, one a haven for cormorants and the last for boating. You can’t go far but renting a boat for an hour attracts lots of couples. From here you have a great view of the oddly shaped Sofitel Hotel - the narrow building is apparently very earthquake resistant.

Following World War II Ueno was famous as black market center. Shopping at more reasonable prices than elsewhere in Tokyo is still a hallmark of this area and huge stores and arcades are in the vicinity of the railway station. Diamonds at wholesale prices are available at numerous shops close to Okachimachi station.