The nearest I was going to get to Irish academia was to join the hoards of visitors and tour the famous Trinity College. It’s a cracking visit, but your concentration levels will need to be finally honed before you embark on this tour.
This magnificent seat of learning has existed since being founded by Elizabeth I in 1592, and an interesting, yet disturbing, fact is that Catholics were not allowed to study there (unless they converted to Protestantism) until the late 1960s. The grounds of this venerated University are impressive, and if you enter the main gates, by the statues of Edmund Burke and Oliver Goldsmith, you’ll be standing in Parliament Square with the 100-foot tall 1850s bell tower looming in front of you. This does seem to be a bit of a folly; it certainly has pride of place next to one of Henry Moore’s famous "reclining forms." There’s a range of age to the buildings, with the 300-year-old red-bricked Rubrics, the Dining Hall (1761), the interdenominational chapel built in late 1790s, and the modern Berkeley Library (1967).
Inside, there are two stunning features – the book of Kells (a work of art completed in the early 800s by monks from Iona depicting the gospels on Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John) and the old university library built in 1732.
The library is over 200 feet in length and houses in excess of 200,000 antiquarian books. Overall, the libraries in Trinity College stores over three million books, as Trinity college exercises its rights under copyright laws to claim free copies of all British and Irish publications. Now I have a fair few books in my house, but apparently Trinity College requires over half a mile of shelving every year to store its selection of new publications. I find that really hard to envisage! For the book lover, the library is an uplifting and exciting experience enhanced by some remarkable marble busts of scholars and the oldest surviving Irish harp.
I took the book of Kells as an artistic experience rather than a scholastic journal. These incredible illuminated Latin manuscripts are inscribed on vellum parchment with ornate patterns and fantastically designed animals. The designs are so inventive that it is often hard to remember that they are forming letters, words, and sentences. The detail in each illuminated letter would have taken such an amazing length of time that it is hard to comprehend how long the 680 pages would have taken to compile. It truly is an act of absolute skill, but also of dedication and commitment to the task. Just gazing on these masterpieces and wondering at the intricacies of each small section is mind-boggling.
You will leave here having taken in only a small percentage of the total, but be prepared for that - enjoy the art and get ready for a return trip when you next return to Dublin. I guarantee that you’ll never claim to have seen or understood it all!