If you are a fan of thoroughbred racing, then you must visit Belle Meade Plantation. What began as just a boarding stable for the likes of Andrew Jackson became the premier stud farm in the U.S. by the late 19th century. The original plantation was 5400 acres and encompassed the entire city of what is now Belle Meade. Today, the house sits on 30 acres. The greatest sire of all time, Bonnie Scotland, is a product of Belle Meade. All of the winners of the Kentucky Derby between 1972 and 1996 are descended from him, as well as most of the Triple Crown winners. Among his descendants are Seabiscuit, Seattle Slew, Affirmed, and Secretariat. Iroquois, the most famous horse of the 1880s and ‘90s, was also a product of Belle Meade. He was the first American-born horse to win the English Derby. In his time, he was making $25,000 a year in stud fees.
This 1853 Greek Revival plantation house was the home of John Harding, though it was William Harding who had the passion for thoroughbred horses. You gather on the front porch and then go as a group into the entrance hall. It is lined with horse prints, ala Stubbs. It isn’t very long before you understand why.
There are costumed guides in each of the rooms. They give you a little talk about the particular room you happen to be in. One thing you do notice is that there are a lot of mirrors in these old homes. This was explained as helping to reflect the light, especially at night. We really can’t imagine how dark it was before the advent of electric lighting.
William Harding was sent to prison camp in Michigan for six months during the Civil War. Union troops occupied the house. They were not that well behaved, and his wife Elizabeth wrote to the Lieutenant Governor, and as a result, the Union troops then became the guards of the plantation.
Pay particular attention to the doors and woodwork in the house. They look like oak or mahogany, depending on which room you are in. They are neither; they are poplar and are faux painted to look like more expensive wood. Iroquois’ silver-capped hooves are in one of the cases in the library.
The house is decorated in typical Victorian style, with some interesting feather pictures. You must visit Belle Meade on a guided tour. You buy your ticket in the gift shop; do I detect a trend here? Well, it is a very nice gift shop with a really exceptional collection of books, so while you’re waiting for your tour to begin, it is worth browsing. The carriage house has a fine collection of carriages, and there is a restaurant which is open for lunch.