Once inside, you can wander freely, spending time at the most interesting exhibits. The entire place is quite large and you could easily spend several hours seeing everything. Some of the highlights were the kitchens, pottery collections, and costume displays. Other rooms show pictures of the former sultans and explain their roles in the history of Istanbul.

At the harem, tickets cost another $8/$4. You are obliged to stay with the guided tour, which is conducted only in Turkish. If you want more information in another language, you can rent a recorded audio guide for about $2. The only problem is that the audio guide apparently gives more information than the actual tour guide, so those of us with audio guides were always falling behind the group. Still, it was almost necessary to have the extra information, because the tour would otherwise be rather meaningless.

Inside, you see the living chambers of the sultans and up to 400 women. There are also gardens, courtyards, and fountains. I could only imagine what life as a sultan must have been like.

Topkapi Palace is one of the finest examples of the Ottoman civil architecture in existence. After harems were added to it, Suleyman moved with all his harem into the new palace.

Topkapi Palace, the greatest residence of the Ottoman Dynasty, is also one of the best museums in the world. This vast and fascinating complex served as imperial residence for the Ottoman Empire for more than four centuries.

Ok, so it's time for a note of warning. The Palace is big. Really, really big. There is a lot to see. And it's all very impressive. Be prepared to spend a full day here, and be well rested beforehand. Bring food and water, as there aren't that many options inside the palace. And bring a lot of film, although they won't let you take pictures in many places.

There are four courtyards to the palace. Only the first is accesible without a ticket, and there is really nothing to see here. The second court contains the Inner Treasury, with gold leaf ceilings and a peep-hole the Sultan once used to spy on arriving VIPs. Off this court you will also find the Imperial Kitchens, and a collection of silver and European procelain. Some of these rooms might be closed; it depends on when you go.

The third court contains the Library of Ahmet III (closed), the School fo the Expeditionary Pages (costumes and kaftans, and the first baggy trousers - isn't it amazing how style comes full circle!) As well, you will find the entrance to the Palace Treasury, and the Hall of the Treasury, with 37 portraits of 37 sultans. If you're not tired and moving at about 10 sultans a minute by now, you're doing better then we did. The treasure dormitory houses Islamic works of art, although it was closed when we were there. Or maybe we'd just had enough. The Pavillion of Holy Relics was probably beautiful, but we were really tired by then. I remember the soundproof glass cubicle from which the muezzin made the call to prayer.

The fourth courtyard has a beautiful Tulip Garden (or whatever happens ot be blooming when you're there.) There is another Iznik (blue) tiled pavillion, the Circumcision Room (where young princes would be snipped), and more upliftingly, a beuatiful view of the Bosphorous.

The Harem now requires you to take a guided tour. You must first line up to buy a ticket (it is not available in the main ticket booth). Then, you are herded through the narrow corridors of the Harem (we counted 50 tourists in a group that was only supposed to have 30) with your tour guide so far ahead you have no chance of being able to follow. Make sure you bring your own guidebook - especially if you want the time to take pictures. A security guard brings up the tail of the pack, and prods you on if you fall behind in the tour, so that you don't get mixed up in the group coming right up behind you. It wasn't a pleasent experience, and they were making a LOT of money off it!

That being said, however, the Harem has some magnificent rooms. See our photos for some examples of the splendour that your $10 will get you.

The Treasury features the Spoonmaker's diamond (7th largest in the world), as well as the Topkapi Dagger. The diamond is truly a sight to behold - the other displays of unthinkable wealth also make this a worthwhile experience. There are golden thrones, amazing chain mail, a diamond-encrusted anchor, and a silver hand with reportedly John the Baptist's bones.