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Editor Pick
Absolute Luxury: The Topkapi Palace
The Topkapi Sarayi occupies the most easterly point of Sultanahmet. To the south is the Sea of Marmara, to the east the Bosphorus, to the north the Golden Horn. This creates some quite heavenly fresh breezes around this pleasant wooded area, and it is understandable that this has always been prime real estate (the palace of the Byzantine emperors lay just to the south west). Since the mid-15th century it has been occupied by the famed Topkapi Palace, home of the Sultans of the Ottoman Empire and the Caliphs of Islam until 1853, practically a suburb in itself.
The ‘First Courtyard’ of the Palace lies outside its walls. This was free for all citizens to visit. Now there are two access points – through the Imperial Gate near Aya Sofya and up past the Aya Irene church, or up through the signposted paths into Gülhane Park to the north-west towards Sikeci. Here you circle to the right past the entrance to the archaeological museums and the Darphane (former Imperial mint). The turretted Gate of Salutations, resonant more of Bavaria than the Bosphorus, marks the entrance to the palace proper. The ticket offices are just to the right. We arrived at 9:00 prompt, opening time, and there were no queues – we paid our 20TL each and received our tickets. These tickets allow you access to the Second, Third and Fourth Courtyards and the associated museum collections (including the Treasury, despite what some guidebooks state). The only section of the palace off-limits is the Imperial living quarters or Harem, for which there is another ticket stand just before its entrance – I will cover this separately.
Once through the Gate of Salutations, or Ortakapi (Middle Gate), you find yourself in the Second Court, given over to the administration of the realm. Ahead across the court is the Bab-üs Saadet, the Gate of Felicity. The entire right-hand wall of the court is given over to kitchens to feed the palace’s inhabitants. To the left were the stables. Ahead and to the left is the entrance to the Harem, and the Divan. The Divan is a surprisingly small set of rooms where affairs of state were settled by the imperial councillors. It takes its name from the red-upholstered couch running along the walls. In one wall you can see a golden grille – this was known as ‘The Eye of the Sultan’, as it was from here that the more responsible (or paranoid) sultans could keep an eye on his advisers. In time the administration moved out to the Sublime Porte of the Grand Viziers.
You pass from the Second Courtyrad to (logiocally enough) the Third Courtyard through the Gate of Felicity. These was a more private are for the sultan; back in the day no one could pass through this gate without the sultan’s express permission. Even the Grand Vizier was only granted authorisation of specified times and under specified conditions. Consider yourself privileged! Immediately ahead is the colonnaded Throne Room, and beyond it the modest grey library of Ahmet III. The outside walls of the courtyard are now occupied by various themed exhibitions. I will tackle them in an anticlockwise direction, heading right as soon as you bypass the Throne Room.
First is the Hall of the Campaign Pages, now home to the Imperial Wardrobe Collection. Upon the death of a sultan his clothes were ceremoniously packed away in sealed bags and stored… somewhere. Which means that today we are able to see almost pristine clothing dating back to Mehmet the Conqueror in the 15th century. There are a lot of sumptuous embroidered silks that had the girls in the party cooing. One cannot help but wonder at the physiques of the sultans who wore such kaftans, close fitting over the chest, but so long and wide below the waist. And you can also see the westernisation of the sultanate in the 19th century as silks and robes gave way to greys and military uniforms.
Next along is the Treasury. It is worthwhile to get here early. We got in with no trouble, but by the time we left there was quite a long queue. You get a bit regimented here. Essentially guards ensure you filter around the walls of a set of joined rooms, once the Pavillion of Mehmet II, at walking pace. The treasures of the Ottoman sultans are displayed behind glass. No dawdling, or running, or loud voices are tolerated!
The displays are heaven for those who like their bling. Magnificent confections of gemstones and gold are interspersed among more delicate craftsmanship. One of the stand-outs is the Topkapi Dagger, made famous by the 1964 film Topkapi that saw Peter Ustinov win an Oscar. The hilt of this curved weapon is decorated with three chunky emeralds (one of which apparently hides a watch!). This was to have been a diplomatic gift from Sultan Mahmut I to the Shah of Persia in 1741. After it had been dispatched east news came through to Istanbul that the Shah had been assassinated (Shah mat, checkmate, ‘the king is ambushed’). Riders were immediately sent out to overtake the diplomatic mission and bring the Dagger back to Topkapi. Another interesting display shows the awards and orders granted to the 19th century sultans by European powers. It is interesting to note that sultans such as Abdulmecid I and Abdulaziz were granted the Order of the Garter by Queen Victoria in practically the same era that Gladstone (four times her prime minister) was calling for the Turks to be swept "bag and baggage" out of Europe (indeed his railing against the Ottomans’ ‘Bulgarian atrocities’ during his 1879 Midlothian Campaign led to Gladstone winning the general election). Other distinctions come from France, Spain, and Denmark.
After these first two rooms there is a small portico in the corner, looking out of the water and seemingly catching every possible breeze. Put simply, this is the loveliest spot in Istanbul. It would have been worth becoming sultan just for the view and the chance to relax here alone.
Continuing into the third room you find the Spoonmaker’s Diamond. This is the fifth largest diamond in the world and used to adorn the turban of the sultan. According to legend it was found in an Istanbul midden in the 16th century. Its discoverer, not knowing its worth, sold it for three spoons.
Across the courtyard is the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle, home to the sacred relics collected by the sultans in their role as Caliph of Islam. Chief amongst these is the cloak (mantle) of the Prophet Mohammed (PBUH) himself. Mohammed is also represented by a cast of his footprint, a tooth, a letter from him, and a hair of his beard ("By the beard of the Prophet!"). Relics of other figures from the great monotheistic religions are also on display – the hand of John the Baptist, the sword of King David, the staff of Moses, and (and I swear I’m not making this up!) the frying pan of Abraham. Which is presumably where he made his holy macaroni. There are also assorted locks and keys to the ka’aba in Mecca, which fell under the caliphs’ guardianship until the Arab Revolt.
A fourth gallery is next door, a selection of paintings and miniatures of the sultans. Frankly you can miss this, though as it is free you might as well browse for a few minutes ogling the size of Suleyman the Magnificent’s turban and noting how portraiture took on more conventional European models in the 19th century.
Out into the Fourth Courtyard you are presented with the Ottomans’ private gardens. Again, some of the loveliest spots in Istanbul. Bear left past the Revan Kiosk . Here you will find a large shallow pool and a terrace. The left of the terrace is anchored by the Circumcision Kiosk, the right by the wonderfully ornate Baghdad Kiosk. This kiosk is superb inside – stained glass windows, delicate blue tiles on the walls, red tiles on the underside of the dome, inlaid mother-of-pearl cupboard doors. Back on the terrace there is a little pergola’d bower overlooking the lower gardens and with a view across to Galata. The sultans apparently used to break their fasts here – how sweet.
There is a reason the Topkapi Palace is the top tourist attraction in Istanbul. Combined with a tour of the harem, it is a great look into a period of absolute rule, overlaid with the orientalist mysteries that have fascinated westerners for centuries – sultans and viziers, concubines and eunuchs, machinations and debauchery, luxury and cruelty, all knit together in the history of the Ottoman empire. Notably, when the sultans started to consciously model themselves after European monarchs in the mid-19th century (and became a heck of a lot more boring!) they vacated Topkapi for more decorous residences. Topkapi Palace shows you the glory, the majesty and the madness of the Ottomans in their prime.
From journal Holy of Holies
Topkapi Palace is Breathtaking
- March 12, 2009
- Rated 5 of 5 by
NiceGinna from Evanston, Illinois
Topkapi Palace, the home of the sultans from the 15th to the 19th centuries, is a large compound; its most impressive area is the harem where the women and children lived, including the concubines. Here one finds intricate tile work, dazzling stained-glass windows, and exquisite tortoise-shell and mother-of-pearl doors and shutters that give you an idea of the opulence of their lifestyle. Elsewhere in the Palace are rooms displaying rich robes, suits of armor and weaponry, furnishings of silver, crystal, and porcelain, often jewel-encrusted. There is also a library, an indication of their interest in education and knowledge.
From journal A Cruise to Turkey, Croatia, and Greece and the Islands
Editor Pick
Topkapi Palace
- August 27, 2007
- Rated 4 of 5 by
barbara from Atlanta, Georgia
Topkapi Palace was the home to sultans for hundreds of years. It is an expansive structure that is a must-see for any visitor to Istanbul. Yet...I was also disappointed by it. But let me get to that later.
You approach the palace via the first courtyard, a place where you can wander for free. It has always been like this. The general public has always been able to congregate here.
For entry into the second courtyard, you must pay 10 Turkish Lyra per person. Here you'll find ancient cyprus trees, the Gate of Felicity where the sultan would have occupied his throne, and throngs of cruise ship crowds gathered around their tour guides. You will not find much to guide you unless you have a guidebook. Of course, guides are available outside the gate, but one we approached would have cost an additional 50 euros. To the right you'll see the palace kitchens with their rows of chimneys. In place of yummy foods to eat, you'll see various collections of fine china and pottery.
Once in the third courtyard, you'll find the Imperial Treasury, which contains several items of interest. First, there's the Topkapi Dagger, which we sought out. Second was the Spoonmaker's Diamond. According to a sign, this giant jewel was actually found in a rubbish heap before making its way to the sultan's turban! That gives a new meaning to the saying, "One man's trash is another man's treasure," eh?
Once into the fourth courtyard, you feel as if you are really getting into the sultans' inner sanctum. Here you'll find beautiful buildings tiled in blue and turquoise. You can access the Harem from here though it will cost you another 10 lyra per person. THIS is where I met disappointment.
I was very much looking forward to the Harem Tour. I had read about the stories told during the tour, the history that brings old buildings to life...so we arrived at the palace early just to join this. However, while we still had to pay the 10 lyra, there was no guide working the day of our visit. We were told to wander through the rooms...many of which have only the sparsest of signs to explain what they were.
Is the Harem still worth seeing it?
Well, yes.
You start at the Court of the Black Eunuchs and follow the Golden Road through the Harem. (The Golden road is not paved in gold. It's called this because the sultan used to throw gold coins onto it for the members of the harem.)
Many of the rooms you see are easy to imagine as inhabited with beautiful women...women looking off to the water from the Harem's courtyard enjoying great power if they were of a certain position... yet forever denied freedom...birds in guilded cages.
My husband and son really enjoyed Topkapi, and you have to see it. If you can, pick up some sort of guiding literature before you go.
From journal Turkey with Teenager
Topkapi Palace - Treasury
- November 8, 2006
- Rated 5 of 5 by
mightywease from Carshalton, United Kingdom
The Treasury at Topkapi Palace is a riot of gold, gems, glitter and, to be honest, wondrous excess. Contained within it are precious items made for the Sultan and court, either to be used by them, or given as gifts to other rulers and dignitaries. Many pieces are themselves gifts presented to the Sultan through diplomatic channels.
There are gold plated thrones, bejeweled plumes used to decorate turbans, the amazing 86 carat Spoonmaker’s Diamond and probably the best known object in the collection, the Topkapi Dagger. Golden, studied with jewels and dominated by three large emeralds (one of which conceals a watch face) in its handle the Topkapi Dagger is a lesson in beauty, affluence and sheer indulgence.
The exhibits are well labeled, with a description and short history, and also well displayed making it easy to appreciate the richness – both decoratively and, to be honest, monetary - of the objects. It can get busy so you may find yourself vying for space in front of the display cases. That is if the many diamonds haven’t dazzled you first!
From journal Istanbul - Minarets and Magic
Editor Pick
Topkapi Palace - Harem
- November 8, 2006
- Rated 5 of 5 by
mightywease from Carshalton, United Kingdom
Harem means forbidden and this area of the palace was indeed forbidden to all men but the sultan, princes and the eunuchs who attended and guarded the Harem quarters.
The harem was, essentially, the private living quarters of the Sultan, his wives, concubines and children, all contained in a labyrinth of corridors rooms and courtyards. At one time the harem contained 1000 concubines, most of whom were Christian or Jewish slaves who had been captured or were bequeathed to the Sultan as a gift. Once in the harem the girls would be taught singing, dancing and musicianship, amongst other skills, and would begin a life in the hothouse atmosphere of the harem. There competition to rise through the ranks and become a favourite of one of the princes or the Sultan himself was rife, in the hope of securing a better, though not necessarily more secure, place in the hierarchy of the harem. Bearing the Sultan a child ensured a higher status and also, if the child was a boy, the chance that he would be the next Sultan making his mother the most powerful woman in the harem, the Valide Sultan.
The Valide Sultan, the Sultan’s Mother was at the top of the Harem hierarchy and it was she, through the black eunuchs, who controlled access to the Sultan. Courting her patronage while avoiding her displeasure – or indeed that of the eunuchs who through their knowledge of the secrets of the harem and palace wielded a quiet but substantial power – must have led to an exhausting, intense and frightening atmosphere.
In terms of its architecture and decoration there are some fascinating rooms in the harem complex including the Dining Room of Ahmet III, which is decorated with fruit and flower motifs, and the Imperial Hall, where the Sultan would sit and be entertained by musicians and dancers. Also throughout the harem there are more examples of beautiful tiling.
In the end, however, my most potent memory of the harem is of the women who lived there. Standing in one of the courtyards overlooking the Harem baths it is easy to imagine their daily lives, the frustrations, hopes and ambitions while in the narrow corridors one can imagine the scheming, intrigue and jostling for position as the woman tried to carve out a better life and position for themselves.
You have to take a guided tour of the harem and there is a separate entrance fee over and above that paid to enter the palace itself. Tickets are limited so get there early.
From journal Istanbul - Minarets and Magic