Bei Hai Park Reviews (Beijing, China)

Overshadowed, but Never Underwhelming

Rotherham, United Kingdom

March 9, 2010

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Best of IgoUgo In terms of fame and the volume of visitors it receives, this particular attraction is dramatically overshadowed by its next door neighbour, the Forbidden City. Were it in any other city in the world, Beihai Park would surely be one the biggest ...Read more In terms of fame and the volume of visitors it receives, this particular attraction is dramatically overshadowed by its next door neighbour, the Forbidden City. Were it in any other city in the world, Beihai Park would surely be one the biggest attractions on show. However, in Beijing, it is often relegated to little more than an afterthought. For many, it is the place tagged on to the tour of the Forbidden City. This truly is a shame as Beihai is one of Beijing's greatest treasures, and, was also the site of one of the funniest accidents I have ever seen.

Most trips to Beihai begin at the southern gate, which is just 200m from the northern gate of the Forbidden City. As soon as you pass into the park, you are greeted by a spectacular view of the central Dagoba, a giant white creation over 20m tall. However, depending on the season, the actual contents of this view can change dramatically. In winter, the Dagoba towers over the naked branches of the surrounding trees and the frozen waters of the lake. In spring, things are far more picturesque as many of the trees shed a wonderfully delicate pink blossom around the whole area. And, in summer, you are greeted by an explosion of colour as the lilies in the lake burst into bloom.

Also, close to the southern gate of the park, stands one of the few remaining traces of the Yuan dynasty. The Yuan dynasty sprang from the exploits of Chinggis Khan, who first conquered China, before his descendants assimilated into the pre-existing culture. Because of the nomadic nature of its funders, the Yuan dynasty failed to put down any significant roots. Therefore, by the time it was overthrown by the Ming less than two centuries later, little remained. One of the few things that we can still see today is a giant goblet built for Kublai Khan that sits in a glass case close to the southern entrance.

Aside from the last remnants of the Yuan Dynasty, there are some other fantastic sites in Beihai. Of course, the Dagoba is spectacular from almost every angle in the park, and the lake is a picture of loveliness in summer. However, probably the most striking of all is the Nine Dragon Screen to the rear of the park, near the north entrance. As you might imagine, the screen contains nine dragons. Each of these are created from glazed ceramic tiles and come in fantastically striking colours. One is a stunning shade of cobalt blue another the finest of golds.

So, this brings me to the accident. It was 2006. Two of my friends were visiting from the UK and we were taking a boat ride. We were in a plastic pedal boat, expending huge amounts of effort and making very limited progress across the lake. In front of use were two electric motor boats, doing their top speed of 3kph. The two were on a head to head collision course. However, things looked pretty safe as there was 30m between them and they were moving at slower than walking pace. Sadly, things began to go wrong, badly wrong. Both boats were occupied by families with mother and child in charge of the steering. As they saw each other, both mothers began to panic and both children began to cry. The gap began to close … slowly. Thirty meters gradually became twenty-five. Twenty-five agonisingly became twenty. All the while, the people on the boats were screaming and completely ignoring the possibility of simply turning the steering wheel. Eventually, in slow motion, the two boats hit. It was possibly the most anti-climactic moment in Chinese history. As the boat were going so slow, there was just a slight bump and everyone stopped. The whaling gave way and the boatrs eventually went their separate ways.

Beihai Park is just next to the Forbidden City and is certainly worth the visit. Most people tag it on to a trip to the famous neighbour, but it is certainly worth an afternoon in its won right. Entrance is a very reasonable 30rmn. Close

From journal The Historic Parts of Beijing

Beihai Park

by Paul Bacon

Rotherham, United Kingdom

May 6, 2006

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Best of IgoUgo I was, without doubt, procrastinating when it came to visiting Beihai. I was well aware of how close it was to Tiananmen and central Beijing, and I had heard nothing but good things about it. However, I had been in China for 4 months before I ...Read more I was, without doubt, procrastinating when it came to visiting Beihai. I was well aware of how close it was to Tiananmen and central Beijing, and I had heard nothing but good things about it. However, I had been in China for 4 months before I eventually mustered the energy to make the journey. Within seconds of passing through the southern gate I was ruefully asking myself why I had waited for so long. I was greeted by a delicately pretty spring view. The trees were lush and green, the lake was glistening in the sun, and the breeze was decorated by wisps of white blossom floating gently down to earth. The centre-piece of the park is the giant white dagoba that crowns the Jade Islet at the southern end of the lake. It is the first thing you see as you enter the park, and even whilst circumnavigating the massive lake, it rarely manages to escape the attention.In truth, the dagoba is a curious looking creation. It is a sort of cylindrical shape, but tapers at the centre making something of a giant hourglass and is topped by a giant spiky looking thing. The spike is painted in deep, dark colors, but the hourglass is painted the most brilliant of whites. With the sun betaing down upon it, the dagoba was intensely bright and seemed to be bouncing all around the park like some serene deity.As omnipotent as the dagoba seemed, there were plenty of other sights that make the park wonderful. On the southern bank of the lake is the round city, home to one of the few remaining relics of the Yuan dynasty. The Yuans originated from the Mongol hordes of Chinggis Khan; their most famous leader being the Khan's grandson Kublai. However, because the Mongols were transient and operated on horseback, and also perhaps because they were better at destroying than creating things, little remains from that period of Chinese history. One thing that has stood the test of time though is a giant wine goblet once used by Kublai himself. The goblet, which sits behind a glass screen, is over a meter in diameter. It reflects the Yuan's Mongol heritage with ornate horse themed carvings around its circumference.At the opposite end of the lake was one of my favorite little corners of not just the park, but maybe Beijing as a whole. Set in its own courtyard, just off the main thoroughfare, is the nine dragon screen. The name pretty much says everything—it is a giant screen, decorated with nine giant dragons. What captivated me though were the colors, an almost electric blue alongside a light and refreshing turquoise offset by rich gold edges—stunning. Close

From journal Living life to Mao

Beihai Park

by Sakura

Kobe, Japan

September 30, 2001

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We got out of the western gate of Jingshan Park. As many people went to the direction of Beihai Park, we followed them up to the entrance of it. We went around the lake seeing White Dagoba far away. The cool wind blew on my face once in a while. ...Read more

From journal The Trip to China in 2001

BeiHai Park

by Jenn966

Hamilton Square, New Jersey

October 24, 2002

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Best of IgoUgo Walking through the southern end of BeiHai park on our way to a lunch at FangShan restaurant, I was able to get only a glimpse of the park's beauty: the lake, the White Dagobah and the Painted Walkway. Other treasures, such as the Dragon Screen, ...Read more

From journal MBA Students on the Loose in Beijing

Beihai Park

by Kathryn

Perth, Western Australia, Australia

September 18, 2000

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Best of IgoUgo Beihai Park is predominantly lake, with two thirds of its 68 ha area covered by open water. The lake was artificially created when the garden was built for imperial use some 800 years ago. The excavated dirt from the lake was used to form the ...Read more Beihai Park is predominantly lake, with two thirds of its 68 ha area covered by open water. The lake was artificially created when the garden was built for imperial use some 800 years ago. The excavated dirt from the lake was used to form the island (Jade Flowery Islet) which sits in the southeast corner.

Beihai Park was originally a playground for emperors from the Jin, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. However now anybody can dine like an Emperor at the luxurious Fangshan Resetaurant. Situated near the boat dock, it serves up imperial recipes favoured by the Empress Cixi.

Fangshan Restaurant was a little pricey for us, but we enjoyed an afternoon touring the grounds. We started our tour at the Eastern Gate. Entry was Y10, which included admission to the White Dagoba on Jade Islet. We then crossed a bridge onto Jade Islet and climbed a set of well worn steps to the top, stopping on the way to admire the view north near the Painted Walkway. At the top stood the White Dagoba. This Tibetan style monument dates from 1651 (but was rebuilt in 1741) and commemorates a visit by the Dalai Lama. It is said that the landmark contains Lamaist Scriptures, robes and other sacred objects. I was impressed by the intricate stone carvings in the walls and balustrades - we were to see identical features at several other Qing monuments including the Forbidden City. Just in front of the Dagoba stood the Yong'an Temple of Lamaism Shanyin Hall, covered with hundreds glazed tiles depicting Buddhist statues. You could climb up to the Hall but it cost extra so we contented ourselves with the view from the ground.

We descended the hill down a steep set of steps on the south side. Our path took us through a series of buildings and court yard, one of which was The Temple of Eternal Peace (although I'm not sure which one...) The buildings housed many Buddhist religious figures. In one of the courtyards was a 'wishing pot' filled with Chinese coins. I threw an Australian 10 cent piece in, although I can't now remember what I wished for.

We exited the Islet by Yong'an Bridge and passed the Round City on our way out the South Gate. We had missed out on several other park attractions including the Nine Dragon Wall in the north of the park (another one!) and the imperial gardens of Emperor Qianlong in the east. But perhaps most disappointing was having to forgo a trip in one of the many bizarre watercraft floating on the lake - particularly the duck shaped paddle boats!

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