The Staten Island ferry ranks as one of the best free tourist experiences in America. We'd ridden it before to marvel at the Statue of Liberty, the fantastic skyline view, and the diversity of the shipping traffic in New York harbor. On November 4th, 2001, the ferry trip was an uneasy reminder of how much America has changed since September 11.
As the ferry left the dock, the usual tourists jockeyed for position with their cameras. This day, the cameras were all competing to document the skyline that is no longer there. I saw very few cameras trained on the Statue of Liberty, instead, everyone seemed to be pointing and gesturing at the empty space where the World Trade Center used to be.
The New York City Marathon was taking place on that day. Due to concerns about security, all shipping traffic was halted and several helicopters patrolled the sky over the harbor. The normally-busy harbor was quiet.