A city with personality
Sometimes I play a game when I visit a new city. I pretend the city is a friend and I try to encapsulate its personality by describing the person. It’s fun, and it helps me understand the place I’m visiting.
Hobart is like a successful, 40-something, artsy type with fond memories of the hippie era. Instantly likeable, it’s accessible, friendly and confident, but never brash or arrogant. It embraces new and exciting ideas, skilfully merging them with a rich history and showcasing the results as a beautiful canvas that always brings a smile.
So grab the walking map and join me as we make a new friend.
By the numbers
Start early with breakfast at Retros in Salamanca Place (1). It’s an icon – the fine food and lively atmosphere bring regulars from everywhere. Overlooking the river and surrounded by parkland and elegant sandstone warehouses, this historic precinct houses a dazzling array of quality galleries, shops and cafes. A nearby staircase leads to Battery Point (2), Hobart’s original port area and oldest district, and in Arthurs Circus the memories of a maritime village are recalled in the splendid early 1800s architecture.
Returning along Salamanca Place we enter St Davids Park (3), a stately sanctuary dominated by majestic European trees and resting place for some of Australia’s first free settlers. Fascinating headstones provide insight into the hardships of early colonial life. The history lesson continues at the Royal Tennis Club (4), one of only five courts in the southern hemisphere and the oldest in Australia, built in 1875. Played on an indoor court that brings many hazards into play, Royal, or "Real", tennis is the ancestor of the modern game, predating it by several centuries.
Heading uphill past St Davids Cathedral on Murray Street we turn onto Liverpool Street and visit the Tasmania Shop (5) for a tempting display of the island’s goodies before browsing for bargains in Elizabeth Mall (6).
Past leafy Franklin Square, the splendid Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery (7) is our next stop, stylishly housed in Hobart’s oldest building, dating from 1808. You’ll need refuelling and the nearby fish restaurants on Elizabeth Pier (8) offer the freshest bargains in the city while pubs like the Brooke Street Bar (8) provide a glimpse of Aussie culture and the lure of a cold beer.
Follow a hearty lunch with a wee dram on a visit to Lark’s Distillery (9) next to the Information Centre before admiring Hunter Street’s wharfside Georgian warehouses (10). The buildings in Salamanca Place looked like this 30 years ago before they were renovated.
Check the time and if you’ve got a couple of hours jump on a ferry at Brooke Street Pier for a harbourside cruise to the Royal Botanical Gardens (11) – the perfect end to a day out with your new friend; the funky and cultured harbourside city of Hobart.