The white domes of the Sacred Heart Basilica patrol the Paris skyline from the top of Montmartre. The French government decided to erect Sacre Coeur in 1873 as a sort of national guilt offering in expiation for the blood shed during the Commune and the Franco-Prussian War in 1870- 71. It was meant to symbolize the return of self confidence to late 19th century Paris. Even so, the building reflected political divisions within the country: it was largely financed by French Catholics fearful of an anticlerical backlash and determined to make a grandiloquent statement on behalf of the Church.

Construction lasted until World War I; the basilica was not consecrated until 1919. In style the Sacre Coeur borrows elements from Romanesque and Byzantine architecture. Built on a grand scale, the church is strangely disjointed and unsettling; architect Paul Abadie had made his name by sticking similar scaly, pointed domes onto the medieval cathedrals of Angouleme and Perigueux in southwest France. Golden mosaics glow in the dim, echoing interior; climb to the top of the dome for the view of Paris. On clear days you can also catch grand vistas of the city from the entrance terrace and steps. Try to visit at sunrise or long after sunset, as otherwise this area is crammed with bus groups, young lovers, postcard sellers, guitar-wielding Christians, and sticky-finger types; be extra cautious with your valuables.

This white basilica is visible from its hill perch across Paris and has become a distinctive element of the Paris skyline. Its construction was the result of a private agreement of two businessmen during the Prussian war, that if France was spared they would build a church. Work began in 1875 and was completed in 1914 but the Great War delayed its consecration until 1919. There is a continual adoration of the blessed sacrament in Sacre Coeur that has been going on for over a hundred years.

Entrance into the basilica is free, but they are very strict on dress code, so be careful of what you wear or you maybe refused admission. Equally as there is prayer going on continuously silence is enforced and no photography is permitted. However, there are so many tourists wandering around that the sense of this being a place of prayer is lost. (If you are looking for space to pray in peace try St-Pierre de Montmartre which is just around the corner.) It is possible to climb the dome of the basilica and have great views over Paris, but this costs 5 euros and if you wander round the area you'll get many equally good views if you are trying to save money.

Since this basilica is at the top of Montmartre Hill, its a fairly steep walk up here if you walk up from the metro, but there are buses and funicular which will avoid most of the climb. However, there are steps just in front of the basilica, which to get a good picture of the basilica must be negotiated.

Montmartre's metro stations are on the edge of the district leaving you with an uphill walk to reach the Sacre-Coeur and the main sights. We avoided walking up the daunting steps by taking the funicular from Square Willette - quick and easy way to get to the top.

Every time I see the gleaming white Sacre-Coeur, right at the summit of the hill of Montmartre, it never fails to impress me. It was built between 1876 and 1914 in an ornate Byzantine style, commissioned as atonement for the 58,000 people who died in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-1871. The basilica was hampered by problems and it was not ready until 1914. Then World War I intervened and the Parisians had to wait until 1919 for the consecration. Priests still work in relays to maintain constant prayer for forgiveness and the horrors of war.

The church has a 273 foot dome. Inside, despite crowds of visitors, the atmosphere is hushed and spiritual. They have one of the world's largest mosaics, depicting Christ with outstretched arms. Photographs inside are not allowed.

Outside there are big statues of Joan of Arc and St Louis guarding the entrance on horseback in sculpted bronze. The remarkably white church is not painted—its whiteness comes from a stone that secretes a white substance when it rains.

Right outside the basilica is a little tourist train which travels around Montmartre and Pigalle. Our son really wanted a trip on it—we were pleasantly surprised at how informative and interesting it was. It costs around £3.50, leaves on the hour and takes around 45 minutes. The driver gives a brief commentary in English, French and Italian.

We saw some interesting things, including Paris' only vineyard—very small, producing very select wines which are sold at auction for about £1,000 per bottle. The train also drove past the famous Moulin Rouge.

Montmartre is worth exploring for its cobbled streets and stunning views. It was the bohemian centre of creativity during the late 19th century—immortalised in the film Moulin Rouge.

The Place du Tertre is a nice little square, but it seemed like every other tourist in Paris thought so too and went at the same time. It is absolutely packed with people and has been ruined by tourism. It also teams with street artists, but we couldn't be bothered elbowing through the crowds to look at their wares. It is lined with tacky trinket shops and overpriced restaurants.

Get through the crowds, and wander, as we did a little off the beaten track and you will find the real village within the city—quiet cobbled streets and whitewashed cottages—beautiful.

At the bottom of the hill is the Pigalle area - a bit seedy and tacky—lots of sex shops and other such establishments. We walked along here to have a closer look at the Moulin Rouge and take some photographs. Although it is the red light area, we felt perfectly safe.

Paris is known for Notre Dame, and Europe is known for it's Gothic and renaissance cathedrals. Any city you visit in Europe will have at least one beautiful cathedral. Sacre-Coeur is a must-visit because it is different than many of these. The bright white building sits at the top of a brightly colored hillside garden in Montmartre. The inside is as beautiful as the outside and the decor has a more eastern feel, with more mosaic than stained glass.

Sacrè Coeur is in the Montmartre district of Paris, famous for the Moulin Rouge, among other things. It's accessible from the Abbesses station on the 12 line, just after the Pigalle station—follow the signs (a warning: you might be tempted to take the stairs up from the station instead of waiting for the elevator. You might not even notice the elevator is there. Unless you hike up mountains a lot, THIS IS A MISTAKE. It is a whole lot of steps, several stories worth. Wait for the elevator. Seriously!).

The neighborhood is a good bit out of the central area, namely Ile de la Cite, but it's worth the trek, and is easy to get to by Metro.

The Basilica is up on top of the hill. You can either walk up the many stairs (stairs are big in this neighborhood), or take the funicular for a few Euro. My personal preference is funicular up, stairs down. The funicular is kind of cool in its own right, so don't be afraid of being a wuss and not taking the stairs.

Before going in you should take a moment to appreciate the view. You won't be able to help it, it's pretty spectacular. You can see all of Paris.

A few more steps (well, more than a few) and you're at the entrance of the Basilica. I've gotten differing reports on whether you can take pictures. I've taken them myself, as have some of my friends, but others have said they were scolded and told not to. My advice: take your chances and take them quickly before someone gets angry and makes you put your camera away. At least you can get a few good shots in.

The Basilica itself is lovely, particularly the mosaic ceilings and alcoves off the nave, one of which includes a detailed model of the Basilica. If you come on a weekend, you're bound to end up in the middle of a service. Unfortunately, tourists tend to ruin the atmosphere, so if you're hoping for a quiet, reverent experience, you'll probably be out of luck.

The neighborhood surrounding the Basilica is also worth a good chunk of time. Artists, pubs, and funky stores are in good supply. Specifically, Place du Tertre is usually packed with artists selling paintings and doing caricatures.