The Frari is one of the two monster churches of Venice, the other being San Zanipolo. Erected at the wishes of the Franciscan order in the fourteenth-century, the brick construct is nothing much to look at externally. However, it holds within it some fascinating works of religious art.

Any list of artwork of note would have to start off with Titian's 'Assumption', the first altarpiece to be set in portrait rather than landscape format. Mary floats up towards a warmly glowing heaven, the crowd below straining to touch her feet. To its left in the Capella Corner you will find what the Rough Guide describes as the 'superbly vivid' (ain't that the truth!) 'St Mark Enthroned' by Bartolomeo Vivarini. To the right though is my favourite work in the church - possibly in all Venice - Giovanni Bellini's triptych of 'Madonna and Child with SS Nicholas of Bari, Peter, Mark and Benedict'. No matter what angle you view it from, the Virgin appears to be three dimensional, a statue posed in an apse rather than a flat two-dimensional painting. "It is as solemn as it is gorgeous and as simple as it is deep" according to Henry James. St Benedict scowls sternly at you.

There are also some corking tombs too, mainly of Doges. There is a plain floor panel marking the grave of Monteverdi, a massive edifice housing the mortal remains of Titian, and a god-awful pyramid that is out of keeping with the rest of the church that serves as a mausoleum to the sculptor Canova. The mourning figures are good, but why the pyramid? Particularly when, for all its bulk and size, it contains only the heart of Canova? To its right stands a grisly memento mori to Doge Giovanni Pesaro.

Year-round it is open all day (9 till 6) Monday to Saturday, and Sunday afternoons. Entry is €2, or free with a Chorus Pass (which you are entitled to with an Orange Venice Card).

Phone: (041) 522 26 37 Open: 9 am – 6 pm Mon-Sat, 3 pm – 6 pm Sun

This church has very plain look from the outside, the façade is made of brick and it doesn’t have much decoration. But it is one of the major sights in Venice. The entrance is to the side and when you enter, you are very much impressed by the numerous chapels, most with paintings by Titian, but even more than that this is the place of burial of Canova and Titian. Canova wanted to build a monument to Titian and he designed the marble pyramid in neo-classical style. But he died before he could implement it. So his pupils built a different monument to Titian which is grand and looks like one of the antique arcs with lots of statues, and they used Canova’s design for his own monument (you can see Canova’s original model in Museum Correr). The monument is very different from its surroundings and looks very modern compared to the rest of the church décor. The church also has very beautiful choir stalls that have wood carvings and the altar with Titian’s "Assumption of the Virgin."

Average Rating – 9, Estimated time to allot – 1 hour, Cost $1.50

This church taught us an important lesson. You can be the best planner in the world and use the most up-to-date resource and still find yourself in a predicament in Venice. When they say that the opening times are subject to change, they mean it! We walked a long ways to the Frari, only to discover that it is no longer open on Sundays. Because of this, we avoided anymore church visits on Sundays, even during "Visiting Hours." This is a wise move. Sunday is the first day to find its way off of the schedule for a church.

Even if you have to walk here two different times, this church is worth the trip. The Frari is incredibly large with high ceilings. There are paintings and marble sculptures along the sides. The altar has a beautiful painting with deep reds and blues, and it’s surrounded by old stained glass. On the sides of the altar are marble statues, probably of saints. The floor is worn peach and bone marble. The stones make this basilica very cold!

Ratings 1-10 (10 is "see this no matter what!" and 0 is "avoid it!")
Jason: 8.5, Mary 9.5, Mom 9

Look for signs for the Frari to find this magnificent sight. Outside it is not that impressive, but once you step through the doors you will be in awe. Inside you will get to view works by Titian and Bellini, and the tomb of Canova.