Can anyone be truly prepared for the Sistine Chapel? Before you enter for the first time you will almost certainly have seen many fragments in many different contexts from art books to adverts, biscuit tin labels to calendars. The body of work in this room is, according to many, the greatest masterpiece in the world – and after you’ve seen it…well you can judge for yourself.
You enter the chapel through an unassuming narrow doorway and are greeted with a barn-sized feast of colour. Recently restored, the frescoes on the walls and, of course, the ceiling are vibrant and arresting. This feast of colour is added to by the mass of people craning their necks to study the ceiling . . . and ignoring the frequent ‘shushes’ that the attendants hiss in a vain attempt to establish a little dignified hush.
The celebrated works of Michelangelo on the ceiling and his Last Judgement on the wall behind the altar are what bring the crowds – the work of Botticelli and other reknowned artists can be found on the other walls but are largely ignored. The Old Testament provides the theme for the series of panels across the ceiling – all powerful in their own right with personal favourites including the Creation of Adam with the fingers touching across the heavens and the Temptation of Eve with its particularly devious looking snake.
And then when you’re done with that and your neck needs a rest give The Last Judgement a look. Tackled some 20 years after the ceiling, Michelangelo took some six years to produce this immense piece. Considering he was reluctant to do it he created an enormous fresco that feels very ‘together’. Michelangelo clearly enjoyed painting a fine physique – the damned look pretty good considering – and wasn’t above putting the odd enemy in their place with uncomfortable depictions. In the lower centre of the picture check out the angelic auditors – the book of the damned is worrying large compared to the saved.
I could have stayed for hours, despite the crowds and the jostling. Find yourself a rare section of bench space and take it all in. The stories behind the paintings are fascinating; Michelangelo fitted the stereotype as a moody, temperamental artist-type while the Popes who commissioned the works come across as demanding and distinctly ungodly at times. Stories of fights and tantrums, locked doors and demands with a little bit of politics thrown in for good measure. Come to think of it, sounds like an average day at work.
Get here early . . . stay awhile. This is one of the most visited pieces of art in the world for a very good reason and, like so many things in Rome, once just won’t be enough.