Albert Barnes was a doctor and business man in the first half of the 20th century who made his fortune on an antiseptic called Argyrol. He was also man of very particular opinions and an extraordinary eye for art. The collection on the outskirts of Philadelphia is jammed with impressionist and modern masters, but also masterpieces of Renaissance and non-Western art. It’s all packed into two floors, exactly as Barnes stipulated, and the major aspect of the museum’s notoriety. Barnes may have been a control freak, but he was not a nut; there’s method to his madness, and the museum is not as remote as publicity would have it.
Information on getting to the museum is at their website, www.barnesfoundation.org. By far the easiest way is by car, but a bus going to City Line Avenue would let you off about a 6- to 8-block walk from the museum. Parking at the museum is most convenient, but is $10. RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED for both parking and admission and should be made about one month in advance. They can be made online. Block out 2-3 hours and try and take each room slowly.
You can easily go into museum coma; there were so many Renoirs that, by the end, they started to blur. The pictures that stayed with me were the stranger ones - a hallucinatory Odilon Redon and several provocatively naïve Henri Rousseaus. There are also pleasant gardens worth a stroll. If you have any extra time in Philadelphia to go beyond the Center City attractions, this is not to be missed.