Santa Maria del Popolo
- April 6, 2008
- Rated 3 of 5 by
Shetraveler from Campbell, California
You've seen St. Peter's already and are not prepared to deal with the tourist hordes on a hot Summer day. Since Rome is the city of hundreds of churches and chapels, you have plenty of alternatives if you want art with your religion.
The Augustinian church next to the north gate of the Piazza del Popolo, Santa Maria del Popolo (1227), contains works by a who’s who of the finest artists working in Rome at the time: tombs by Andrea Sansovino, frescoes by Pinturicchio, a chapel designed by Raphael, and sculptures by Bernini.
Walk down the nave to the left side transept and you find the crown jewel, in my opinion, of this collection, the chapel (Cappella Cerasi) decorated by two Caravaggio masterpieces: The Conversion [of St. Paul] on the Way to Damascus and the Crucifixion of St. Peter. These two paintings are excellent examples of Caravaggio’s specialty of capturing a single biblical moment in time. Both subjects are the sum foundations (the rock and the seat) of the Catholic Church. St. Paul (then Saul the Pharisee) has fallen to the ground, temporarily blinded, after hearing Christ’s voice asked him “Why do you persecute me?” The muscular St. Peter causes some heavy lifting, as he is hoisted up by three Romans to his requested upside-down crucifixion. The two canvases are housed beautifully within the chapel, a bit large for the space, but still superstars in a gallery of other Renaissance artwork.
From journal Alternative Rome