I had always wanted to visit the picturesque mountain town of San Sebastian, but didn't want to endure the long bus ride. Recently, a new highway was built which connects Puerto Vallarta to Guadalajara east through the Sierra Madres...so I decided to take a bus tour from Puerto Vallarta. (You may also take a local bus there--very inexpensive -- but it will make many stops along the way.)
All-day tours begin early, and you will travel through many small towns during the two-hour drive. It's a very scenic ride, so bring a camera. The road is good (except during the rainy season), and eventually you will start winding upward through the mountains. The tour will stop at a small family-run arcilla factory- "Parador San Sebastian." Of course, you will get a tour...and free samples!
When you reach San Sebastian, at 4,500 ft elevation, the first thing you see is a small (very small) coffee plantation. We purchased two bags of coffee, and it was packaged fresh as we waited! The guide will then show you around the town, and you must visit the Casa Museo de Dona Conchita. You might even meet Conchita, an elderly woman with great stories of early San Sebastian. It was once a wealthy gold-mining town with a population of 30,000 in its early days, but now there are only about 600 residents. With the new highway I expect the population will increase soon.
Be sure to visit the local 18th century church dedicated to San Sebastian, and then wander through the small shops surrounding the cobblestone plaza in the center of town.
By now you may want to sit and rest on one of the benches here. People are friendly...be sure to smile and say "Hola!" Finally, don't miss lunch! Unfortunately, I didn't notice the name of this good restaurant (ends with "Lupita"), but it is located at the beginning of town on the right. The food was wonderful, the service was great, and the servers and cooks here were happy and friendly.
If you would like to stay several days, the nicest hotel is Hacienda Jalisco. It has 10 rooms,but earlier this year still had no electricity or phones. It is not inexpensive- about $80 nightly. Other hotels are about $40 per night.
Several companies offer tours: Vallarta Adventure is by van, and the others are in large air-conditioned motorcoaches. Prices vary, but the tour should be under $100.
And...when you leave San Sebastian...you know you will be back someday!