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Sacsayhuaman

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Liam Hetherington
Liam Hetherington
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4 out of 5
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2
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Editor Pick

Sacsayhuaman

  • October 21, 2006
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Shady Ady from Hinckley, United Kingdom
Sacsayhuaman

Sacsayhuaman, or as it is also known, Saqsaywaman, meaning ‘satisfied falcon’ is probably the most impressive of all the Inca ruins immediately surrounding the city of Cusco and can easily be reached as part of a day trip from the city, taking in some of the other Inca ruins in the area. Plus being perched overlooking the Inca capital, it gives amazing views of the urban sprawl below.

As with many of the Inca ruins witnessed today, many historians argue over the true meaning and use of Sacsayhuaman. Some say it was built in order to put it ahead of the city’s Sun Temple and therefore it has enormous religious presence. Others say it was strategically positioned as a war-like fortress to fight against the invading Spanish armies. Indeed whichever reason is true; there is no doubting the formidable size of the ruins, which could have easily housed 5,000 people in its prime. Upon visiting the ruins I was amazed to learn that only 20% of the original site remains today, and even now it dominates the skyline above Cusco.

Today, the ruins are only a shadow of their former self, but the masonry and handicraft of the Inca culture is still more than evident. In its heyday Sacsayhuaman was a complex and broad labyrinth of underground passages and doorways. There were three separate walls, still evident today built parallel to each other on different levels with limestone of enormous size, zig-zagging across the site. The three-levels are said to represent the three levels of Andean religious life; the underground stage (Ukju Pacha), the earth’s surface stage (Kay Pacha) and finally the sky stage (Hanan Pacha), identified by the snake, puma, and the condor.

Some say Sacsayhuaman represents the teeth of the pumas head, with Cusco being the body and many tour guides will show you diagrams and pictures mapping the ruins and its likeness to that of a puma. It really is uncanny and makes you wonder how such a grand design could have been accomplished. Even more amazing is the fact that many of the stones used came from over 35km away, giving it a ‘Stonehenge-esq.’ mystery surrounding it.

The best time to visit Sacsayhuaman is on June 24th when the annual Sun Festival takes place, celebrating the winter solstice, giving a glimpse of life and celebrations that many visiting tourists fail to see. If this is not possible, then at dawn gives you amazing views over Cusco as the early morning sun rises. Entrance to the ruins is through the ‘Boleto Turistico’ ticket, costing around $25, giving you access to 15 other sites dotted around Cusco. Most city tours of Cusco include Sacsayhuaman in its schedule and at only $6-$10 for the city tour, I would highly recommend seeing these ruins this way as the tour guides tend to be very knowledgeable about the facts surrounding the ruins. In my opinion, by far the best set of Inca ruins surrounding the city of Cusco.

From journal Cusco City - On the Trail of the Incas

Editor Pick

Sacsayhuaman

Sacsayhuaman

Where Edinburgh is presided over by its castle, Tokyo by Mount Fuji, and Rio by Christ the Redeemer, Cuzco sits in the shadow of Sacsayhuaman. Atop the hill overlooking the town to the north-east sit great blocks of Inca stonework, some 8.5m high and weighing up to 300 tonnes. Once thought to be a fortress due to its high walls and obvious defensive position (and perhaps due to fact that forces of both Manco Inca and Francisco Pizarro used the site as such in the struggle for the city in the 1530s) its real purpose is now thought to more likely be ceremonial.

Sacsayhuaman (pronounced 'sexy-woman' to my ears anyway!) is easily reached by taxi for about $1.50, though the more rewarding route is to walk up the sloping Pumacurco from Plazeta de las Nazarenas. The road is soon broken up by flights of stairs that leave you gasping in the oxygen-starved air as football-playing boys and old ladies laden down with shopping overtake you. Thankfully I found that you can disguise your collapse as an expertly-timed break at a fresh juice store. At the top it is free entry with a boleto touristico. Guides are available. As are locals with brightly-clothed llamas—you take a photo, you pay!

It is hard now to make out the details of the site. Massive stone bulwarks and bastions surround the central grassy area. According to my guidebook one area served as the Inca's symbolic 'throne' around which ran grooves to funnel liquid - fortunately they reckon the liquid in this case was the maize beer chicha, rather than anything more gory.

My recommendation would be to leave a visit to late afternoon (to climb up at midday in the sun would be the plan of a madman!). At the end of the day the coach parties have left, leaving the site emptier. Admire the views over Cuzco and take some snaps—assuming that your camera doesn't decide to take that moment to break as mine did. Watch the shadows lengthen around town as the sun sinks behind you. Then shiver as the exposed ramparts get surprisingly chilly once the sun is gone. Another friend recommended an early start to see dawn over Cuzco too. And according to some girls at the language schools, if you're sneaky you can evade the guards and reach the floodlit site at night too for a very otherworldly experience!

From journal Cusco - The Navel of the World

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