Perched high on a hilltop,
Prague Castle has been the area's seat of power for hundreds of years.
We wanted to see the changing of the guard at noon, so we found seats on the steps of a building opposite the first courtyard where we could clearly see two sentries at their posts. In blue uniforms, they stand in the shadows of the
Battling Titans, two giant statues engaged in battle on the gate piers.
We were able to watch a small company of guards march through those gates to the sounds of a brass band and go through the formalities of saluting and nodding that all guards do when they change positions.
It's my understanding that the changing of the guard is not quite as elaborate at other hours of the day, but I can't speak to this. The whole affair was less than twenty minutes long, and we enjoyed watching it. Then we followed the flow of the rest of the crowd into the palace grounds.
Keep in mind you can walk through most of the grounds for free, but we wanted to see everything available, so we bought a family ticket for 500 K, (around $25) that gave us access to all the sites on offer. The best thing about this ticket was that it was valid for two days so we weren't rushed. We also rented audio wands to serve as our tour guides. These were almost as expensive as our entry ticket, but they allowed us the freedom of controlling our time while still learning about what we were seeing. We used the wands for the minimum rental time (2 hours), which got us through all of the St. Vitus Cathedral, the site where crowds will press the hardest.
Queues were almost always lined up to go inside the Gothic church, so I'd advise getting here as early as you can to make your visit less chaotic. Still, you
must see the church. The stained-glass windows are absolutely amazing. Our tour-wands explained the significance of the various crypts including the silver tomb of St. John of Nepomuk whose statue figures large on the Charles Bridge.
Since it was a clear day, we were allowed entry to the bell tower as well... though only go up this winding staircase if you're up for a long climb. Kids will enjoy counting the
many steps...
Apart from the church, you'll want to see Golden Lane, a collection of shops that require an entry ticket. Here, our son was able to shoot a crossbow! This was a
definite highlight for him. Go to Golden Lane early because it gets stiflingly crowded.
Other attractions in the complex like the Old Palace will have fewer crowds and are worth a wander. The art in the Picture Gallery is far superior to the other art museum.
If you're into classical music, you might want to visit the Lobkovicky Palace (for an extra charge) with its original Beethoven manuscripts.