The piazza is crowded, yet remains somehow relaxing. I enjoyed walking along it looking at souvenirs while eating a refreshing gelato. Of course, I couldn't resist buying a Venezia hat and a blown-glass gondola to remember my ride by. Relaxing in the piazza is a great way to spend a few hours of your afternoon.

So, for every person covered in pigeons, there is a photographer or two capturing the moment. Also, people are wandering around with their cameras held up to their faces, stepping backwards vainly trying to get the whole Basilica in their viewfinder, and frequently bumping into other people. I can hardly imagine more chaos, but surely high season turns this square into a sea of people.

While in the square, a man presented me with his digicam and asked me to take a picture of him. I took a picture of him in the square, showed it to him, and he complained "no bird." Okay, I said. I told him to put his back to the Basilica so as to make a pretty picture and I'd try again. I shoot him with the lovely background and he tells me "no bird - I want bird on head." I'm not sure if this is going to work without feeding the pigeons, considering his competition. I tell him my girlfriend is a pro photographer and will give it a try. She carefully frames him in the picture, putting him at the lower left with the beautiful Basilica behind him. He see the picture and says "No bird. Also, I do not know if you know this simple rule of photography. Person should always be at center of picture." Okay, we are sorry, we tell him. We both give up at creating that perfect photograph.

The best way to approach the much loved spot is from the waterfront, passing the two tall granite columns upon which stand symbols of the city's past and present patron saints, namely a representation of the demoted St Theodore with a vanquished dragon and a massive version of the famous winged lion of St Mark. Having then entered the Piazzetta, the views on either side of the lovely Old Library and even more attractive Doge's Palace respectively are a great introduction to the other wonders that will soon be seen.

Right at the meeting point of the two distinct sections of the open space is the landmark Campanile, which dates back to a faithful reconstruction at the start of the 1900s that followed a dramatic collapse. The panoramas that are available from the top are truly spectacular, but perhaps a little deceptive, because whilst nearly every building is visible, very few canals are. Happily, climbing the long and claustrophobic stairway up what is the tallest structure in the area is not necessary because there is a lift. One piece of advice is to think about the timing of the ascent, as the loud ringing of the bells can be even more overwhelming than the stunning vistas! Also nearby is a much-loved clock tower, but unfortunately throughout the couple of years that my visits spanned, it was under wraps due to major renovations.

Meanwhile, a harmonious contrast to the eclectic exterior of the justifiably world famous St Mark's Basilica is provided by the arcaded Procuratie, which surround the main body of the Piazza on three sides. The northern and southern stretches of the interlinked complex both date back around five hundred years, and house among other things a venerable pair of coffee houses, Caffe Florian and Caffe Quadri. The newer third wing connected the two much later, at the start of the 19th century, but blends in surprisingly seamlessly and completes the scene in fine style. Nowadays, it is home to the Correr Museum, which displays a decent variety of items pertaining to the region's art, crafts and past, including early Renaissance paintings, statues by Canova, and various historical artefacts.

The somewhat daunting crowds have long been an integral feature of what is really the heart of the incredibly popular city. However, appreciating the aesthetic splendour in more relaxed circumstances is both possible and indeed very pleasant at the start of the day, when the whole place is almost deserted. In addition, late at night it is nearly as empty, beautifully lit and incredibly atmospheric.